Shikoku Pilgrimage in Matsuyama

The Shikoku pilgrimage or Shikoku Henro, a 1,200-year-old route connecting 88 temples across the island of Shikoku, is often imagined as something extreme. The full route stretches roughly 1,200 kilometers, passing through four prefectures (Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa), and traditionally takes 30 to 60 days to complete on foot.

Because of that, many people assume it’s only for serious pilgrims.

But it doesn’t have to be.

In Matsuyama, the main city of Ehime Prefecture, you can experience part of the pilgrimage in a single day. This beginner-friendly Shikoku pilgrimage route in Matsuyama is ideal for first-time visitors looking to experience the henro on a shorter timeframe.

While the area is home to eight pilgrimage temples (46−53), this route focuses on three of them.

In this article, we follow temples 51 to 53 — one of the most accessible sections of the Shikoku Henro. You walk where it makes sense and use trains when distances get too long, which is how many modern pilgrims approach the route today.

If you’re curious about the Shikoku pilgrimage but don’t know where to start, this is one of the easiest and most realistic ways to experience it without committing to the full journey.

Total walking time is around 4−5 hours, spread across the day, covering roughly 8−12 km depending on the route and any detours.

This route is ideal for first-time visitors looking to try the Shikoku pilgrimage in Matsuyama without prior experience.

From Matsuyama City Station, it takes about 20 minutes by bus to reach Ishite-ji, the 51st temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage route (88-temple circuit).

Founded in the 8th century, the temple has over 1,300 years of history and is one of the most significant stops in Matsuyama and Ehime. It’s known for prayers related to health, healing, and safe childbirth, and even today you’ll see a steady mix of pilgrims and local visitors moving through the grounds.

The entrance of Ishiteji Temple is wider than expected, almost like walking into a large estate. Inside, the grounds open into multiple structures built across different periods, including Ehime’s only three-story pagoda and several designated cultural properties.

Next to the main hall, a narrow entrance leads into what’s known as the Mantra Cave, one of the most unique experiences at Ishite-ji.

The temperature drops as you step inside, the light fades, and the path stretches about 160 meters through a dim corridor lined with Buddhist statues. The space is divided into sections said to represent different states of mind — from reflection to a kind of resolution.

After leaving Ishite-ji, the route continues on foot toward Dogo.

There’s no clear "route" in the way most travel guides describe one. You follow local roads, pass houses, walk along streets.

After about 30 minutes, you reach Isaniwa Shrine. Entering from the back, a long stone staircase, 135 steps, leads up to the main hall.

The shrine dates back over 1,000 years and is known for its striking vermilion buildings, built in a style similar to Kyoto’s famous Hachiman shrines. From the top, the view opens over the Dogo area, offering a rare elevated perspective before descending back into the town.

After descending the long stone steps of Isaniwa Shrine, the route leads naturally into the streets of Dogo Onsen.

The atmosphere here is so different! After quiet residential roads, you step into a small but lively onsen town, one that has been in use for over 1,000 years and is often considered the oldest hot spring area in Japan.

At the center is Dogo Onsen Honkan, the historic bathhouse that many people recognize for its wooden architecture. It’s often mentioned as an inspiration for Spirited Away, but even without that reference, the building stands out on its own.

The shopping street leading to the bathhouse is lined with small local shops, snacks, crafts, and simple souvenirs, but what makes it worth stopping is how easy it is to spend time here without a plan.

Ehime is known for its citrus, and one of the easiest things to try is a tasting of different mikan (a type of mandarin) juices. At places like Ehime no Shokutaku 1970, you can compare varieties side by side. The differences are subtle but noticeable, and it’s a good reminder that "mikan" isn’t just one flavor.

By this point, you’ll probably be ready for a proper break. For lunch, try Matsuyama’s local specialty, taimeshi, fresh sea bream served with rice and a light soy-based sauce. It’s simple, but after a morning of walking, it’s exactly what you want.

Near Dogo Onsen Station, there’s a mechanical clock (Botchan Karakuri Clock) that opens and performs a short show at set times during the day. It’s worth timing your stop here, especially if you want to sit in the nearby foot bath while it runs.

With your feet in hot water, you start to feel how much of the day you’ve already covered, and more importantly, reset before continuing the walk.

If you try to walk directly from Dogo Onsen to Taisan-ji (Temple 52), it takes over two hours.

Instead, I recommend you to take a train from Dogo Onsen Station to Mitsu Station (about 1 hour with a transfer at Otemachi), then continue on foot.

After you pass Mitsu Station, the route changes. You leave the busier parts of Matsuyama behind and walk through quieter residential areas, where daily life feels more visible. Here, you start to notice everyday details, local shops, parked bicycles, and houses with open gardens. The road gradually inclines, and the closer you get to Taisan-ji (Temple 52), the quieter it becomes.

The final stretch to Taisan-ji is the most physically demanding part of the day.

After passing the entrance gate, the path climbs steadily uphill. The greenery thickens, the air cools, and the climb steepens. By the time you reach the second gate and the main hall, you’re slightly out of breath, and the scale of the buildings hits differently because of it.

The current main hall, rebuilt in 1305, is designated as a National Treasure. Compared to Ishite-ji, it feels quieter and more removed, with fewer visitors.

One detail that stands out is the bell tower, known for its painted panels depicting heaven and hell — surprisingly vivid, and easy to miss if you’re not looking for it.

There’s also a small hall dedicated to Prince Shotoku, where students come to pray for success in exams, a reminder that these temples are still part of everyday life.

You sit for a moment, catch your breath, and let the space settle before continuing.

From Temple 52 to Temple 53, Enmyo-ji, it’s about a 40-minute walk.

By now, your legs feel heavier, especially on slight inclines.

The path continues along local roads, with no clear markers at first glance. Then you start noticing them, small stickers and signs placed along the way, pointing toward the next temple.

You begin to rely on them as you walk, realizing they’ve been guiding people along this route for a long time.

Enmyo-ji, Temple 53, of the Shikoku pilgrimage in Matsuyama, is smaller than the previous temples, but it feels different. Locally, it’s known as "Wake-no-Enmyo-san," reflecting its close connection to the surrounding community.

A copper plate discovered here in 1921, by a visiting University of Chicago professor, contains one of the earliest recorded uses of the word henro (pilgrimage), giving the temple a small but notable place in the history of the route.

It’s also known as the site where the oldest pilgrimage name slip (nosatsu) was found, linking today’s visitors to people who walked this route centuries ago.

There are details you wouldn’t expect, like a lantern associated with hidden Christians from a time when Christianity was banned.

It also marks one of the final temples in this section of the route before the landscape opens toward the Seto Inland Sea.

From Iyo-Wake Station, just a few minutes' walk from Enmyo-ji, you take a short train ride to Iyo-Hojo Station, then start walking again toward the sea.

Before finishing the day, stop at Seapa no Yu (シーパの湯), a local onsen facing the coast. The outdoor bath looks out over the Seto Inland Sea, and after hours on your feet, the combination of heat, water, and open space feels so earned!

For the night, I recommend to stay at Cafe & Oyado Mahoroba, a small guesthouse in Matsuyama known among Shikoku pilgrimage walkers.

Simple, functional, and built around what you actually need after a full day on foot.

If this is your first time trying part of the Shikoku pilgrimage, a few small things make the experience much easier.

If you’re interested in traditional pilgrim clothing, you can find everything at the Matsuchika shopping arcade under Matsuyama City Station. Many people choose to wear just one item, like the white coat or hat, rather than the full outfit.

The white coat (hakui) was traditionally worn as a symbol of purity, but it also resembles burial clothing, reflecting the reality that long pilgrimages were once physically demanding and uncertain. The walking staff (kongozue) represents Kukai, the founder of the pilgrimage, who is believed to walk alongside pilgrims throughout the journey.

Also, keep in mind that public transport in some areas runs infrequently, so it’s worth checking schedules in advance.

The Shikoku pilgrimage doesn’t have to be done all at once.

In Matsuyama, you can experience part of the route in a single day, walking between temples, moving through local neighborhoods, and combining it with everyday stops like Dogo Onsen and the coast.

This 1-day route covering temples 51 to 53 offers a practical way to understand how the Shikoku pilgrimage works, without committing to the full 88-temple journey.

If you’re planning a trip to Matsuyama or Ehime and looking for something beyond typical sightseeing, this is one way to experience the region more directly — at a slower pace, and on foot.

If you’re staying longer in Matsuyama, you can extend this route into other parts of Ehime that follow a similar pace.

You could head inland to places like Ozu and Uchiko to explore beautiful architecture and small-scale craft.

From the Hojo area, it’s also easy to continue toward the coast and take a ferry to Gogo Island. Renting a bicycle there is the simplest way to explore — coastal views and very little traffic.

If you prefer to travel by train, southern Ehime offers a different rhythm altogether, with slower routes connecting towns like Matsuno and Uwajima.