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EHIME Prefecture
Ultimate Guide to Cycling in Ehime, Japan
Gogoshima, Yumeshima Kaido, and Saijo Trails
Ehime offers a network of hidden cycling routes that rival the famed Shimanami Kaido. For those seeking quiet roads, stunning coastal scenery, and the joy of discovering off-the-beaten-path gems, these routes are perfect. With easy access from Matsuyama Airport (just a 90-minute flight from Tokyo), it’s an ideal getaway for a blend of cultural landmarks, breathtaking views, and local flavors. Let me show you some of the best alternative cycling journeys you probably haven’t considered yet — but absolutely should!
Route 1
Gogoshima Island — A Relaxed Coastal Escape near Matsuyama
Gogoshima’s cycling routes are ideal for beginners, offering gentle terrain and plenty of scenic spots to enjoy the beauty of the Seto Inland Sea. The island’s small size makes it perfect for a leisurely pace, and the lack of crowds allows you to fully immerse yourself in its serene charm.
Getting There
Take the Iyotetsu train from Matsuyama City to Takahama Port (about 20 minutes), then hop on a 10-minute ferry to Yura Port. Use Google Translate to check the Takahama (高浜) — Yura (由良) ferry schedule. You can rent a bike at Yura Port or bring your own on the ferry, making it simple to start exploring as soon as you arrive.
Suggested Itinerary
Starting from Yura Bay, I cycled past Gogoshima Elementary and Junior High School, where the quiet roads led me to Washigasu Beach. Even in winter, the white sands of Washigasu Beach and calm waters were breathtaking. Imagine cooling off here with a swim in summer — simply perfect.
Pushing on, I climbed to Koibito Pass (Lover`s Pass), one of the island’s most stunning viewpoints. The panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea were worth every effort. Our guide from Shikoku Tours even brought coffee to warm us up as we enjoyed the incredible scenery on a windy day — a moment to remember.
For food, the island offers unique spots like a beer brewery and a café run by an orange farmer, but many places are only open on Fridays and weekends. Be sure to check their schedules before you go!
More to Explore
After returning to Takahama Port — especially if you decide to spend a night on Gogoshima — you can explore even more local gems nearby. Take a quick ride to Mitsu Station, where you’ll find the nostalgic charm of Mitsuhama Shopping Street.
Here are some must-visit spots
Famous for their freshly fried じゃこてん (jyakoten), a local specialty made from finely ground small fish (often sardines or whitebait) and deep-fried to golden perfection. Be sure to get there early, as they sell out!
This historic building now houses a collection of local shops, designers, and even a cozy café, making it a fascinating spot to explore.
The traditional restaurant where you can enjoy delicious 鯛めし (tai-meshi), a regional specialty. This dish features fresh sea bream sashimi marinated in a rich soy-based sauce with raw egg and sesame.
Route 2
Yumeshima Kaido – Island-Hopping Adventure
The Yumeshima Kaido is a scenic cycling route connecting the islands of Ikina, Sashima, Yuge and Iwagi Island in Kamijima-cho, Ehime Prefecture. This quiet, off-the-beaten-path destination offers a nostalgic glimpse of rural Japan, where time seems to stand still. Perfectly maintained bridges and roads make it easy to explore, whether you take on the full 63-kilometer route or focus on just one or two islands.
Getting There
You can get to the Yumeshima Kaido by high-speed boat or ferry from Imabari Port or Habu Port on Innoshima Island. However, since I stayed at the cyclist-friendly lodge WAKKA, I opted for the convenience of the water taxi service, which can take you and your bike directly to the island of your choice — Iwagi Island, in my case.
WAKKA is a great base for anyone cycling through the Seto Inland Sea. Situated along the Shimanami Kaido in Imabari, it’s thoughtfully designed with cyclists in mind, offering practical amenities like bike storage, repair tools, and cycling maps to help plan your journey. The accommodation options cater to a variety of budgets, from affordable capsule rooms to luxurious cottages and even tents with stunning views of the sea, making it a versatile choice for all types of travelers.
Suggested Itinerary
My first stop was the Mt. Sekizen Observatory on Iwagi Island, a rewarding climb that’s well worth the effort for cyclists! At the top, I was greeted by sweeping views of the shimmering blue sea — a scene that’s as stunning in real life as it is through a camera lens. To make the experience even better, our guide even brought a heavy coffee kettle all the way up (thank you again Nakano-san from Shikoku Tours!), allowing us to enjoy a freshly brewed cup while taking in the view.
In winter, the sea sparkles in vivid blue, framed by the quiet beauty of the islands. In spring, pink clouds of sakura trees add a touch of magic, making this spot even more breathtaking during hanami season (though it can get a bit crowded with locals celebrating under the blossoms).
Mt. Sekizen Observatory during cherry blossom
After the climb, I stopped by Lemon Heart Café, a delightful eatery on Iwagi Island that celebrates the region’s famous citrus fruits. While their handmade lemon-based dishes are a must-try, it was their hearty stamina pork bowl on rice that truly hit the spot and gave me the energy to continue my journey.
From there, I made my way to the Breakwater Art Installation, also known as "Listening to the Sea." This whimsical piece is part of a larger collection of art scattered across the islands of the Yumeshima Kaido.
Continuing on, I arrived at Nouson808, where I had the chance to try lemon farming myself — a fun and hands-on experience that ended with a glass of freshly squeezed lemon juice.
Next, I pedaled to Ikinajima and Sashima, two islands brimming with retro charm and unique cultural treasures. Among the highlights was Shiomi House Island Village Hostel on Sashima Island, a beautifully preserved Japanese house that felt like stepping back in time.
Combined with the warm atmosphere and a few friendly stray cats wandering about, the hostel had an air of nostalgia that perfectly complemented the serene island surroundings.
As we made our way across the islands, we also came across many local shrines and temples. Always so quiet and serene! Occasionally, we’d spot a friendly local waving to us as if to say hello. These encounters, coupled with the breathtaking views and unique artistic and cultural highlights, made every moment of the Yumeshima Kaido trip truly unforgettable.
Route 3
Spiritual Cycling in Saijo City
In some areas of this Ehime city, residents do not pay for water — it's entirely free! The water is not only free but also exceptionally clean and pure, a true point of pride for the locals.
Meet Saijo, also known as the "City of Water" (水の都市). This area is renowned for its abundance of crystal-clear natural spring water, which flows directly from the towering Mt. Ishizuchi, the highest peak in western Japan. One of the best places to experience this is at "Uchinuki" (うちぬき), where wells are scattered throughout the city, bubbling up fresh spring water that’s perfect for drinking!
Getting There
From Matsuyama, it’s about a one-hour ride on the JR Yosan Line. Simply take the train from Matsuyama Station to Iyo-Saijo Station, which is the main hub for exploring the city. For those looking to explore Saijo on two wheels, bicycle rentals are available at Iyo-Saijo Station and other nearby locations.
Suggested Itinerary
No trip to Saijo is complete without visiting Ishizuchi Shrine, nestled on the slopes of Mt. Ishizuchi, one of Japan’s most sacred mountains. The mountain has long been a site of pilgrimage for practitioners of Shugendō, a spiritual tradition blending Shinto, Buddhism, and animism. Pilgrims, known as yamabushi, sought enlightenment through rigorous ascetic practices in the harsh mountain environment.
One highlight of my visit was trying the horagai, a conch shell horn traditionally used by yamabushi. While challenging to master, I managed a few deep, echoing notes with some guidance.
Hearing the sound resonate was exhilarating — a brief but meaningful connection to the yamabushi’s traditions. Historically, the horagai wasn’t just a musical instrument; it was a practical tool for communication, with each sound carrying a specific meaning like "let's go" or "your turn." It was also believed to ward off evil spirits.
A Stay at ITOMACHI HOTEL 0
Another standout from my trip was staying at ITOMACHI HOTEL 0, designed by the renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, celebrated for blending traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern sensibilities. The hotel is a masterpiece of eco-conscious innovation, incorporating renewable energy systems and upcycled materials in its furnishings.
The design reflects Saijo itself, featuring elements like the city’s famous spring water "Uchinuki" and the rich blue hues of Iyo blue stone (Iyo Seki). The hotel offers two accommodation types: the "Hotel Type", inspired by the subtle blue hues of Iyo stone, and the "Villa Type", which includes private open-air baths. It’s the perfect place to rest after a long cycling journey before continuing your Japanese adventure!
Dining at Musubi Restaurant
As I was already tired from my long day, I decided to dine at the on-site restaurant, which collaborates with local farmers and fishermen to deliver the freshest seasonal ingredients.
The Musubi Restaurant is led by the esteemed Chef Yoshida-san, who brings over 30 years of expertise in Japanese cuisine. And it wasn’t just the most delicious sake, made from Saijo’s pristine water, that lifted my spirits — Yoshida-san's flair and passion for his craft were incredibly inspiring! The entire hotel staff had the same spirit of hospitality — polite, open, and incredibly welcoming. Honestly, it was one of the best stays/meals I’ve had in a long time!
Tips for Cyclists
Before wrapping up my article on the three cycling routes, here are some tips to help you navigate the area:
Plan Your Ferry Timings
Ferries between islands run on a schedule, so plan ahead to avoid delays. Traveling from one island to another is incredibly easy — don't stick to just the land routes! Ferries save time and often lead to new, uncrowded places to explore.
KASHO-KI is a helpful web system that provides timetables, route maps, and e-tickets for regular ferries and passenger ship routes in the Shimanami area. It’s available in multiple languages, including Japanese and English.
The official Shimanami Japan website also offers detailed information on ferry schedules and transportation options, making it easier to navigate the Shimanami Kaido area.
Pack Light
Many guesthouses and bike rentals offer luggage transfer services, allowing you to travel light and focus on the ride.
Seasonal Highlights
- Summer: Perfect for swimming and soaking in the sun.
- Spring: Cherry blossom season — a peaceful alternative to crowded Kyoto or Tokyo.
- Autumn: Ideal for cycling through vibrant autumn leaves, with cooler, comfortable weather.
- Winter: I traveled in winter and was mesmerized by the sea’s stunning colors under clear skies. However, it can get quite windy, so make sure to wear windproof clothing and layer up.
- Avoid major Japanese holidays like Golden Week (late April-early May) and Obon (mid-August), as these periods can get quite crowded.
Be Flexible
The islands offer a quiet, slow-paced life, which is part of their charm, but it also means that cafes and shops can close unexpectedly. If you have specific places you want to visit, check their official Instagram accounts for updates — many local businesses post important announcements there.
Consider a Guide
If you’re unsure about completing the trip on your own or want a more curated experience, hiring a guide can make a big difference. I highly recommend Shikoku Tours, they offer the most authentic experiences and customized trips.
Join the Shima Hime Ride Digital Stamp Rally!
If you’re planning a cycling trip to Ehime, why not make it even more exciting by joining the Shima Hime Ride digital stamp rally? This limited-time event (until March 10) encourages cyclists to explore some of Ehime’s most scenic cycling routes while collecting digital stamps at registered spots like WAKKA and ITOMACHI HOTEL, which I mentioned in this article!
How it works:
📍 Download the SpotTour app and join the "Shima Hime Ride" tour
📍 Cycle to the designated locations on 3 different routes
📍 Collect digital stamps at each spot
📍 Get a special Shima Hime Ride sticker at each location
📍 Complete the rally for a chance to win Ehime specialty goods like towels, mikan sweets, and local sake (Note: Unfortunately there is no international shipping).
📍 Download the SpotTour app and join the "Shima Hime Ride" tour
📍 Cycle to the designated locations on 3 different routes
📍 Collect digital stamps at each spot
📍 Get a special Shima Hime Ride sticker at each location
📍 Complete the rally for a chance to win Ehime specialty goods like towels, mikan sweets, and local sake (Note: Unfortunately there is no international shipping).
🏁 3 Shima Hime Ride routes:
❶ Shimanami & Yumeshima Area
❷ Imabari & Matsuyama Area
❸ Imabari & Saijo Area
❶ Shimanami & Yumeshima Area
❷ Imabari & Matsuyama Area
❸ Imabari & Saijo Area
To Sum Up
The routes I mentioned above are just a glimpse of what Ehime’s hidden cycling paths have to offer. Don’t be afraid to venture onto new routes — while the language barrier might seem daunting, tools like Google Translate and the incredibly friendly locals will make it manageable. Don’t rely solely on maps, countless hidden cafes and unexpected gems are waiting to be discovered. Stay open to adventure, and I’m sure you’ll have an unforgettable experience!
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