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THE OTHER SIDE OF TOKYO
Izu Oshima: Tokyo’s Secret Island Getaway
Explore volcanic landscapes, turquoise beaches, snorkeling spots, and scenic hiking trails
When we think of Tokyo, the bustling metropolis with its crowded streets and endless traffic is the immediate image that comes to mind. However, Tokyo has a secret, a side that remains hidden from most tourists and even locals — a peaceful escape tucked away from the chaos. Allow me to share this hidden gem with you — the Izu and Ogasawara Islands, situated south of Tokyo Bay.
These islands, collectively known as the "Tokyo Islands," consist of nine islands in the Izu archipelago and two islands in the Ogasawara group. In this article, let me take you on an adventure to Izu Oshima, Tokyo's nearest island retreat.
About the Island
With its mesmerizing turquoise sea enveloping it, Izu Oshima is a small island inhabited by around 8,000 people. This small island is easily accessible, taking as little as 1 hour and 45 minutes by high-speed jet boat from Takeshiba Port in Tokyo.
For convenient exploration of the island, renting a car is a popular option. However, if you don't have a driver's license (like me haha) or prefer a more active approach, bicycles are highly recommended.
After arriving on the island, I easily rented an electric bicycle from a store near Motomachi Harbor. It was a convenient choice that allowed me to explore the island at a leisurely pace and enjoy its many attractions.
Things to do on Izu Oshima
Let’s begin our adventure at Akinohama Swimming Beach, a delightful destination just a 30−40 minute bicycle ride away from Motomachi Port.
This picturesque beach is a heaven for those seeking a complete ocean experience, thanks to its rocky areas that offer perfect spots for diving into the sea.
With its deep and mysterious depths, the sea at Akinohama invites diving enthusiasts to explore its wonders. While snorkeling is enjoyable, diving offers a more exhilarating adventure, allowing you to discover the hidden treasures beneath the surface.
Convenience is key, as there are a couple of showers located next to the parking lot, ensuring a convenient and refreshing way to rinse off after your ocean escapades.
This picturesque beach is a heaven for those seeking a complete ocean experience, thanks to its rocky areas that offer perfect spots for diving into the sea.
With its deep and mysterious depths, the sea at Akinohama invites diving enthusiasts to explore its wonders. While snorkeling is enjoyable, diving offers a more exhilarating adventure, allowing you to discover the hidden treasures beneath the surface.
Convenience is key, as there are a couple of showers located next to the parking lot, ensuring a convenient and refreshing way to rinse off after your ocean escapades.
Another recommended spot is Toshiki Beach, located at the southernmost tip of Izu Oshima.
Nestled amidst the basalt lava formations, this enchanting spot is often referred to as "nature's pool" by the locals due to its tranquil waters devoid of waves. The crystal-clear water provides an ideal opportunity for snorkeling enthusiasts to witness a vibrant underwater world teeming with colorful fish.
It’s important to note that the surrounding terrain is rocky, making it risky to walk barefoot. To ensure safety and comfort, it is highly recommended to bring along a pair of marine shoes.
Nestled amidst the basalt lava formations, this enchanting spot is often referred to as "nature's pool" by the locals due to its tranquil waters devoid of waves. The crystal-clear water provides an ideal opportunity for snorkeling enthusiasts to witness a vibrant underwater world teeming with colorful fish.
It’s important to note that the surrounding terrain is rocky, making it risky to walk barefoot. To ensure safety and comfort, it is highly recommended to bring along a pair of marine shoes.
Ura-Sabaku: Japan's only desert
After an exhilarating day by the ocean, why not embark on a one-of-a-kind desert experience in Japan? You may be surprised to discover that the Tottori Sand Dunes in Tottori Prefecture, often mistaken for a desert, do not hold an official desert classification. However, there is a remarkable destination that claims the title of Japan’s only official desert — the "Ura-Desert" on Izu Oshima Island.
So why is the Ura-Desert so dark and barren? This question may arise in the minds of curious travelers.
Located on the slopes of Mt. Mihara, an active volcano, the Ura-Desert is composed of scoria, granular lava. The absence of vegetation on its surface can be attributed to volcanic gases and other environmental factors.
During my visit, a captivating fog blanketed the area, creating an ethereal atmosphere reminiscent of Hayao Miyazaki's favorite Soviet cartoon "Little Hedgehog in the Mist".
While the view from the summit of Mt. Mihara offers a spectacular sight, if you are planning a one-night trip, I highly recommend exploring the captivating back desert instead of climbing the mountain. In my experience, it provided the most breathtaking panorama in all of Izu Oshima.
While the view from the summit of Mt. Mihara offers a spectacular sight, if you are planning a one-night trip, I highly recommend exploring the captivating back desert instead of climbing the mountain. In my experience, it provided the most breathtaking panorama in all of Izu Oshima.
Great section of tephra layers
Another remarkable destination that deserves your attention is the "Great section of tephra layers" on the southwest side of the island. These distinct layers, resembling the rings of a baumkuchen cake — a kind of spit cake from German cuisine which is also a popular dessert in Japan. Oshima "Baumkuchen" was formed through countless eruptions spanning tens of thousands of years. The accumulation of scoria volcanic ash resulted in the formation of these captivating striped patterns. As I meticulously counted the layers, I gained a profound appreciation for the rich history of Izu Oshima.
Riding my bicycle along the scenic route, I was treated to a delightful sight. On one side, the turquoise sea stretched out before me, while on the other side, the stratigraphic section unfolded like undulating waves. It was an experience I will never forget.
Riding my bicycle along the scenic route, I was treated to a delightful sight. On one side, the turquoise sea stretched out before me, while on the other side, the stratigraphic section unfolded like undulating waves. It was an experience I will never forget.
Enjoying Local Cuisine
When you get a little tired, take a break at a favorite local restaurant. If you don't have much time, though, you can have a quick bite at one of the nearby restaurants at Motomachi Port, but to want to experience the atmosphere of the island like a local, I recommend the retro "Habu Port" in the southern part of the island.
Habu Port is a natural harbor created by an eruption, and is a quiet place surrounded by rich nature. You can enjoy a nostalgic atmosphere as old houses from the Meiji and Showa periods still remain. This spot was featured in Kawabata Yasunari's novella "Izu no Odoriko" (The Dancing Girl of Izu).
Habu Port, which used to be overflowing with tourists, is becoming a conspicuous place of empty houses these days. Recently, however, people from Tokyo and other prefecture have been renovating vacant houses and reusing them as cafes and inns in an effort to revive this place.
Habu Port is a natural harbor created by an eruption, and is a quiet place surrounded by rich nature. You can enjoy a nostalgic atmosphere as old houses from the Meiji and Showa periods still remain. This spot was featured in Kawabata Yasunari's novella "Izu no Odoriko" (The Dancing Girl of Izu).
Habu Port, which used to be overflowing with tourists, is becoming a conspicuous place of empty houses these days. Recently, however, people from Tokyo and other prefecture have been renovating vacant houses and reusing them as cafes and inns in an effort to revive this place.
My favourite cafe on the island - Hav Cafe
Walking around Habu Port I found a charming café named Hav Cafe, housed within a beautifully renovated old private residence. This place was brought to life by Naoko Terada, a journalist with a profound love for exploration, having ventured across more than 100 countries. Enchanted by the allure of Izu Oshima, Naoko transformed the house into a cozy coffee shop, exuding warmth and hospitality.
While all dishes are super simple it was the best food I had on the island. The delectable "pizza toast" made from locally sourced bread and the island's own Oshima butter was so good. The coffee at Hav Cafe is truly exceptional, boasting carefully selected and expertly blended coffee beans. To complement the outstanding coffee, the café is adorned with a variety of retro and fashionable items, such as antique plates, cups, pictures, pins, and bags, all acquired during Naoko's worldwide travels. This collection adds a touch of wanderlust to the cozy atmosphere.
While all dishes are super simple it was the best food I had on the island. The delectable "pizza toast" made from locally sourced bread and the island's own Oshima butter was so good. The coffee at Hav Cafe is truly exceptional, boasting carefully selected and expertly blended coffee beans. To complement the outstanding coffee, the café is adorned with a variety of retro and fashionable items, such as antique plates, cups, pictures, pins, and bags, all acquired during Naoko's worldwide travels. This collection adds a touch of wanderlust to the cozy atmosphere.
A short walk from Hav Cafe leads to Ukai Shoten, a croquette shop cherished by locals and tourists alike. Here, you can relish a wide range of freshly fried croquettes, including filet, skewers, ham, and menchikatsu - a fried meat cake.
During my visit, I couldn't resist ordering a hot classic croquette, savoring its flavors while enjoying the mesmerizing view of the sea.
Ah, how simple and pure is the happiness found in moments like these!
During my visit, I couldn't resist ordering a hot classic croquette, savoring its flavors while enjoying the mesmerizing view of the sea.
Ah, how simple and pure is the happiness found in moments like these!
Time to Get Some Rest…
Of course, staying at a conventional hotel with a well-equipped reception desk and lobby is not a bad option. However, if you're visiting the island, I highly recommend considering a guesthouse that allows you to immerse yourself in the local life, capturing the authentic atmosphere and heartfelt hospitality that can only be experienced in a small inn.
During my recent trip, I had the pleasure of visiting a remarkable inn called "Rohan," where the ambiance perfectly encapsulates the Taisho Romantic era. Similar to "Hav Cafe," this hotel was ingeniously constructed within an abandoned house.
The inn's owner personally took care of every aspect, from the design to the renovation process. The living room is a captivating blend of Japanese and Western styles, adorned with a treasure trove of old photographs, books, and furniture donated by the island's residents.
Stained glass panels cast colorful hues across the space, harmonizing with the rich cherry-colored velvet furniture and elegant chandeliers. The nostalgic yet stylish atmosphere transports you to a bygone era, evoking the sensation of stepping back in time.
During my recent trip, I had the pleasure of visiting a remarkable inn called "Rohan," where the ambiance perfectly encapsulates the Taisho Romantic era. Similar to "Hav Cafe," this hotel was ingeniously constructed within an abandoned house.
The inn's owner personally took care of every aspect, from the design to the renovation process. The living room is a captivating blend of Japanese and Western styles, adorned with a treasure trove of old photographs, books, and furniture donated by the island's residents.
Stained glass panels cast colorful hues across the space, harmonizing with the rich cherry-colored velvet furniture and elegant chandeliers. The nostalgic yet stylish atmosphere transports you to a bygone era, evoking the sensation of stepping back in time.
Tranquil Paradise
When the bustling city life becomes overwhelming and exhaustion sets in, it's time to embark on a ferry journey to Izu Oshima, a tranquil paradise that offers a refreshing reset for the mind and soul.
By escaping to this picturesque island, you'll discover a newfound appreciation for Tokyo. As you immerse yourself in the serene surroundings of Izu Oshima, the fatigue of city living dissipates, leaving you rejuvenated and ready to embrace the next day with a renewed sense of positivity.
By escaping to this picturesque island, you'll discover a newfound appreciation for Tokyo. As you immerse yourself in the serene surroundings of Izu Oshima, the fatigue of city living dissipates, leaving you rejuvenated and ready to embrace the next day with a renewed sense of positivity.
Access
Take a high-speed jet boat from Takeshiba Port in Tokyo (takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes).
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