Where to Stay
Near Mt. Fuji
Without a Car

A couple of years ago, a few Tokyo friends casually mentioned, "I'm going to SANU this weekend." I assumed it was a nickname for a town or a friend’s cabin. But as it turns out, SANU 2nd Home is a growing network of nature-inspired wooden cabins across Japan, built for people who want a second home in the forest without owning land. While the brand is well known in Japan, I had never seen it mentioned in the English-speaking travel world.

Curious, I booked my first stay at SANU 2nd Home Yamanakako 1st, near Mt. Fuji. Here’s how it went—and why I think it’s one of the best nature escapes from Tokyo, even if you don’t drive. Below is the full itinerary with local cafés, activities like sauna, and the best secret Fuji-viewing spots — all accessible on foot or by bus!

SANU offers a growing collection of modern wooden cabins across Japan — quietly tucked beside lakes, forests, and ski towns like Karuizawa, Hakuba, and Lake Yamanakako.
But these aren’t hotels. And they’re not vacation homes in the traditional sense.

They’re designed as second homes — simple, stylish spaces for people who want to return throughout the year without needing to own property. While SANU offers a co-ownership option, anyone can book a short stay through Booking.com.

The concept is grounded in a single philosophy: "Live with nature."

When SANU was first created, founder Mr. Honma told the design team: "The building should be like a white vessel. Nature is the main character — the trees outside the window, the flowers in the vase. The role of architecture is to quietly frame and highlight that beauty."

SANU cabins are built with environmental harmony in mind:

• Roofs shaped to allow trees to grow freely
• Elevated foundations that protect animal paths and airflow
• Windows that face the forest instead of roads
• Sound-amplifying curves that let birdsong and wind pass through clearly

So you can imagine how excited I was to stay at one of the cabins after I found out it’s bookable for a night or even a week via Booking.

When most travelers think of staying near Mt. Fuji, they head straight to Kawaguchiko. It’s beautiful and full of cafés — but also increasingly crowded. Recently, it feels more like a sightseeing hub than a quiet retreat.

So instead, I chose Yamanakako.

Just one lake over, it feels like a different world: fewer shops, fewer people, and fewer barriers between you and nature.

Here, Mt. Fuji doesn’t peek between buildings — it stands clearly in full view, often reflected in the still lake. The boardwalks are often empty. Locals jog or cycle along peaceful roads. Hidden cafés appear deep within the forest. It’s not just quieter. It’s also just as easy to reach!

From Tokyo (Shinjuku):

• Head to Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above the New South Gate of JR Shinjuku Station
• Take the highway bus to Yamanakako (Bugakusō-mae / 撫岳荘前)
• Walk 10 minutes through the forest to the SANU 2nd Home

🚌 You can reserve seats online in English via: https://highwaybus.com → Select "Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal" as departure and "Yamanakako-Hirano" as arrival.

Check-in at SANU 2nd Home starts at 3:00 PM, so I stopped for lunch at Mori no Arumu, just one minute from the bus stop.

Run by a kind couple, the place felt like something out of a Studio Ghibli film or a countryside inn — handmade decor, warm wood interiors, and hydrangeas blooming in the garden.

I sat outside with a sandwich, surrounded by soft light and birdsong. On weekdays, it’s peaceful. If you love whimsical places with a quiet charm, you’ll feel at home here!

After lunch, I walked toward the lake. I’d heard about a boardwalk that traces the edge of Lake Yamanakako.

The path, known locally as Mizube no Boardwalk (水辺のボードウォーク), is one of the few places in Japan where Mt. Fuji appears fully unobstructed.

I stayed a while — watched the reflection, took a few photos, and simply stood there, feeling like I could cry from the beauty!

At 3:00 PM, I walked through a forest path to check into my SANU CABIN, "BEE," designed by architect Kotaro Anzai.

One note: the road is slightly sloped and surrounded by nature — if you’re carrying heavy luggage or traveling with elderly guests, it’s best to send your suitcase ahead to your next hotel after staying at SANU 2nd Home and travel with a backpack instead (especially if you’re staying for 1−2 nights).

Check-in was via code, sent by email in advance.

And I almost gasped when I saw the inside: pale wood, curved passages, soft corners, and no clutter. Each room opens to a large window filled with green. Nothing but trees moving in the breeze.

Even the construction uses traditional Japanese carpentry techniques. Panels fit together like shoji screens — no nails, no glue — so each part can be replaced individually.

"Architecture has a beginning and an end, just like people," Anzai says. "So we designed this cabin with the end in mind, too." That’s such an interesting thought — simple, but profound.

The cabin has everything you might need — from kitchen appliances to a Bluetooth speaker. The only thing: there’s no food in the area, so read below to find where to go after you check in.

Later that afternoon, I walked through the forest 20 minutes to a favorite spot: Paper Moon Cafe.

Tucked in the forest, it has antique furniture, soft lighting, and the scent of pie and roasted coffee in the air.

I ordered their signature cherry pie with vanilla ice cream and sat on the terrace, surrounded by green. On weekdays, it’s quiet. On weekends, locals gather here — but the feeling remains gentle and warm.

I continued along the lake to 夕焼けの浜展望台 (Sunset Beach Observation Deck). If you walk quietly into the woods nearby, you may spot wild deer or swans — yes, swans! They were introduced to Lake Yamanakako in the 1980s as part of a tourism initiative. They are not native to the area but were brought in to enhance the scenic, fairy tale-like atmosphere of the lake. Over time, they adapted to the environment and became a beloved part of the lake’s identity — often spotted gliding across the water near sunset or resting by the shore.

There aren’t many convenience stores, but you’ll find 7-Eleven Yamanakako Asahigaoka a short walk away. For dinner, I recommend Kosaku Yamanakako, a local favorite known for Hōtō — thick, flat noodles in a miso broth with pumpkin, mushrooms, and root vegetables. Earthy, nourishing, and perfect after a cool mountain evening.

I woke early to filtered light and the sound of birds. It had rained overnight — the scent of moss, bark, and earth filled the air.

After making coffee and watching the trees from the terrace, I packed up and walked 10 minutes to CYCL, a lakeside sauna and water retreat.

Located right by the lake, CYCL is a swimsuit-on, gender-inclusive sauna space — rare in Japan.

After the sauna, enjoy tea or detox water, along with homemade pudding or sorbet in the tatami lounge — a space designed to make you slow down and stay a little longer.

From CYCL, I walked back to Bugakusō-mae bus stop and boarded the same direct highway bus — no transfers needed — back to Shinjuku.

This was just the first part of the article. SANU 2nd Home in Karuizawa, Hakuba, and more are waiting.