Discovering Hidden Charms: Ozu City, Ehime

Welcome to Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture, famously dubbed the "Little Kyoto of Iyo." This city boasts a vibrant history, flourishing in sericulture, traditional papermaking, and lacquerware production from the Edo period to the early Showa era. What makes Ozu truly special is that the atmosphere of those bygone days is still very much alive here. You can immerse yourself in this historical charm by strolling through streets that have faithfully preserved the architecture and town layout from the Edo to Meiji periods. Picture this — samurai residences and merchant houses standing side by side along streets where the old town layout remains, creating a reminiscent atmosphere of a Little Kyoto in various corners.

You might worry that such picturesque places in Japan are hard to reach without a car or knowledge of the language. Fear not! After a flight from Tokyo or any other major city in Japan (you can even book a night bus from Osaka to Matsuyama for less than 5000 yen!), you'll find yourself at the main airport of Ehime — Matsuyama Airport. From there, simply hop on a bus to Ozu (you can find the schedule on Google Maps from the airport to JR Ozu Station). If you decide to spend a night in Ozu (which I'll explain later), free shuttles to and from Matsuyama Airport or Matsuyama Train Station are available.

Endowed with a rich cultural heritage, in recent years, Ozu City faced challenges like depopulation, an aging population, and a declining birthrate, leading to vacant homes. Beloved book shops and traditional cafes (kissaten) were forced to close due to a lack of customers, leading to the disappearance of both jobs and lodgings at an alarming rate. The once vibrant castle-town now grappled with widespread urban decay.

To revive its historic charm, in 2018, a crucial public-private partnership (PPP) agreement was forged between the Ozu City Council, local Iyo Bank Ltd., and two town development consultants — NOTE Co. Ltd. and Value Management Co. The two movements united under Kita Management Group. Named after the successful "Kitagumi" in the Meiji era, it transformed vacant houses, preserving the city's beauty. Check out these before-and-after photos of Ozu's streets to see the incredible transformation.

Their impact extends beyond mere renovation; they've turned these historical houses into accessible hotels for everyone. Before you worry that these renovations might compromise the authenticity of the old houses for tourists, rest assured. Every effort has been made to preserve the original charm, down to the graffiti in the toilets, believed to have been written during the Edo period!

This NIPPONIA Hotel in Ozu breaks the mold when it comes to accommodations. I'm constantly struck by how they seamlessly blend comfort with history. When I visited Ozu city this time, I bunked in a centuries-old warehouse — it had all the modern comforts I could wish for, from a spacious hinoki bath on the first floor to comfy beds and a lounge with sofas on the second.

The original structure, dating back nearly 150 years to the late Edo and early Meiji periods, served as warehouses for storing vegetable wax ingredients. Over time, this building fell into disuse, with some in a deteriorated condition, marked by roof damage, leaks, and even the threat of collapse. But check out how great it looks now!

Oh, and here's the cherry on top: staying at Nipponia Ozu not only makes reaching the town from Matsuyama a breeze with their free shuttle bus, but it also grants you access to their exclusive guest-only lounge with unlimited drinks. Unlimited sips of Ehime-made mandarin juice, coffee, and a variety of alcoholic beverages like beer and wine.

[BOOK Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town (link to booking)]

You know what's the best part? NIPPONIA Hotel isn't just a hotel. It's like it's woven into the very fabric of the city. It fits so seamlessly into the atmosphere that you can't quite tell where the hotel ends and the city begins. Throughout my stay, all I did was wander around Ozu, popping into its charming little shops showcasing local crafts, grabbing coffee at cozy cafes — and the best part? Everything is within arm's reach. You don't need any wheels to explore. Step out of the place you're crashing at, pick a direction, and start strolling. Get lost in the streets because every corner holds a new discovery, and it feels like the city is whispering, "Surprise, I've got something for you around every bend.

To make your city exploration a breeze, you'll get your hands on "THE OZU PASSPORT" during check-in — a practical brochure featuring a city map, a list of shops, and more. Show this passport, and you'll even get some discounts at the places listed inside. It's your all-access pass to not just navigate but also enjoy the best of what Ozu has to offer.

But let me give you a sneak peek of what Ozu has in store for you! From the tallest castle in Japan to a restaurant serving up the finest Japanese fusion cuisine, there's a bit of everything to tantalize your senses.

That is just a short list of places you can visit in Ozu! There is so much more!
Ozu is an ideal base for exploring Ehime. If you decide you've seen everything you wanted and bought everything you needed, just jump on the train and take a short 13-minute trip to Uchiko.

Flourishing during the late Edo period to the Meiji era, Uchiko Town was renowned for its production of wood wax. This town boasts many attractions, including the meticulously preserved historical district, the retro-style theater "Uchiko-za," which continues to entertain audiences, and the mystical power spot "Yuge Shrine." Take a leisurely walk through the town, discover popular tourist spots, and find your own favorite hidden gems. The gentle ambiance of Uchiko Town has a magical way of reconnecting you with your true self.