Hidden Charms of Japan: Ozu and Uchiko towns

Ozu Castle, perched on the Hiji River, stands tall as a town symbol. After the original main tower was demolished in 1888, the castle got a new lease on life in the early 2000s, thanks to local efforts and donations. Using traditional Japanese techniques and aided by old photos and a donated Edo period wooden model, the castle was meticulously reconstructed, showcasing the town's history with authentic methods and materials. By the way, Nipponia offers a unique plan where guests can stay for a night at the castle, a special treat only in Ozu. You can even channel your inner lord, entering the grounds on horseback if you fancy. The experience includes a spirited salute by samurai troops with matchlock rifles, topped off with the chief retainer handing you the symbolic keys to the castle.

Garyu Sanso, a registered Important Cultural Property of Japan, is an exquisite complex that transports you to the Meiji era. Constructed by wealthy merchant trader Torajiro Kochi (1853–1909), the villa boasts a thick thatched roof, sliding doors framing river views, and spacious verandas overlooking enchanting gardens. Inspired by Kyoto's seventeenth-century Katsura Imperial Villa, Garyu Sanso's charm lies in its two small tea pavilions, Furo-an and Chishi-an, where you can unwind while observing the river's gentle flow. The meticulously landscaped gardens mirror the distant scenery of mountains, forests, and the Hiji River, creating a serene backdrop. Every Sunday from April to October (excluding August), indulge in matcha tea and Japanese sweets in the picturesque teahouse overlooking the Hiji River.

To immerse yourself in the essence of mid-twentieth-century Japanese life, a visit to The Omoide Soko (Storehouse of Memories) is a must. Inside this museum, you'll encounter reproductions of a drugstore, police box, tobacco shop, and a general store. The building is a treasure trove of surprising retro goods, from enameled signboards to toys and iconic three-wheeled cars. Behind the general store lies a Japanese-style living room that painstakingly recreates the era's way of life—complete with tatami mats, a low table, and a CRT television. As a big fan of the Showa era (1926–89), I could easily lose track of time spending hours in this nostalgic heaven.

Le Un, the Nipponia's restaurant, invites guests to indulge in the finest produce sourced from local farms. The menu is a harmonious fusion of Japanese and French culinary techniques, highlighting the bounty of ingredients from nearby farms and the Seto Inland Sea. The presentation on Tobe ware plates, featuring beautiful bright blue dyeing, elevates both the taste and visual appeal. Beyond a mere dining spot, Le Un offers an immersive experience where every aspect, from flavor to aesthetics, takes center stage. It was so nice to eat all these fantastic looking food while at the illuminated Ozu castle's through the window! Also if you are a fan of Japanese sake, you would be pleasantly surprised with the menu here! charm while savoring local sake, adding an extra touch of magic to the culinary journey.

Find more about their concept here.

The first craft beer brewery in Ozu, where you can not only enjoy craft beers brewed with locally sourced ingredients like kiwi, chestnuts, and strawberries from Ozu but also indulge in light snacks and soft drinks, making it a versatile café. Their product names, such as "Garyu" derived from the historic landmark in Ozu, reflect our commitment to the nationwide promotion of Ozu.

Originating in Yame City, Fukuoka, in 2012 as an "Antenna Shop for Conveying Kyushu's Craftsmanship," Unagi no Neboko has been actively engaged in promoting regional culture as a local cultural trading company. Now, based in Ozu City, they aim to explore and act on "Craftsmanship, Regional Culture in Shikoku and the Seto Inland Sea, and Japan." I actually got there the haori (羽織) is a traditional Japanese hip- or thigh-length jacket worn over a kimono. Do you think it suits me?

A renovated traditional Japanese house featuring a unique blend of retail, gallery, and café spaces. At the storefront, you can find locally sourced fresh vegetables and traditional Japanese sweets from nearby farmers. You can also find a dedicated corner for the clothing brand "Sa-Rah," known for crafting garments from natural materials.

You might worry that picturesque places like Ozu in Japan are hard to reach without a car or knowledge of the language. Fear not! After a flight from Tokyo or any other major city in Japan (you can even book a night bus from Matsuyama to Osaka!), you'll find yourself at the main airport of Ehime - Matsuyama Airport. From there, simply hop on a bus to Ozu (you can find the schedule on Google Maps from the airport to JR Ozu Station). If you book NIPPONIA, free shuttles to and from Matsuyama Airport or Matsuyama Train Station are available.

Find my reels about Ozu and Nipponia here and here