OITA Prefecture

Kunisaki Peninsula Minemichi Trail

Japan’s Hidden Pilgrimage & Hiking Route

Oita Prefecture is often recognized for its world-class onsen, attracting visitors to its famed hot springs in Beppu and Yufuin. However, beyond these steaming landscapes lies an even deeper experience — one rooted in spirituality, history, and untouched nature.

While many come to Oita in search of relaxation, few venture into the Kunisaki Peninsula, an ancient center of mountain worship, Buddhist devotion, and pilgrimage routes that have remained largely unchanged for over a millennium.

If you are visiting Oita for the first time, be sure to check out my first-time visitor’s guide. But for those seeking something beyond the well-trodden paths, the Minemichi Long Trail offers a transformative journey into Japan’s sacred past.

A Birthplace of Buddhism in Japan

The Kunisaki Peninsula has been a spiritual center for more than 1,200 years, dating back to the Nara period (710−794). It was here that the unique Rokugo Manzan culture flourished, blending Buddhism, Shintoism, and Shugendō (mountain asceticism) into a distinct spiritual tradition.

old japanese temple carved into cliffside

Unlike the grand temples of Kyoto or Nara, Kunisaki’s sacred sites are carved into cliffsides, hidden within deep forests, and scattered across mist-shrouded mountain ridges. The best way to experience this landscape is by walking the Minemichi Long Trail, which follows the ancient pilgrimage routes once traversed by monks seeking enlightenment.

But before setting off into the mountains, it is essential to begin where Kunisaki’s faith itself began — at Usa Jingu.

Usa Jingu: The Heart of Hachiman Worship

📍 Location: Northern Oita, near Kunisaki Peninsula
⏳ Time Needed: At least half a day
🌿 Highlights: One of Japan’s most important shrines, striking architecture, deep historical significance

Located in northern Oita, Usa Jingu is the birthplace of Hachiman worship, which became Japan’s most widespread Shinto faith. Thousands of Hachiman shrines exist across Japan, but Usa Jingu remains the most revered.

Established in the 8th century, the shrine played a pivotal role in the creation of the Great Buddha of Nara (Daibutsu), securing its place in the history of Japan’s religious development.

Stepping through its massive torii gates, I could immediately sense a shift — from the ordinary world into the realm of the divine. The shrine grounds are adorned with shide (zigzag-shaped paper strips) that flutter in the wind, symbolizing purity and the presence of deities.

For those wishing to delve deeper, a 40–50 minute climb up Mt. Mikkoyama leads to Omoto Shrine, the inner sanctuary of Usa Jingu, where the mountain gods are believed to reside.

What is the Kunisaki Peninsula Minemichi Long Trail?

The Kunisaki Peninsula Minemichi Long Trail (国東半島峯道ロングトレイル) is a 134-kilometer pilgrimage route tracing the paths used by monks for over a millennium.

A cyclist next to a traditional japanese house

image source: kunisakihantou-trail.com

Passing through rugged volcanic landscapes, moss-covered temples, and forgotten villages, the trail offers an experience far removed from Japan’s bustling cities. It is a place where time slows, where the landscape dictates the rhythm, and where spirituality is felt rather than observed.

two ladies on a mountainous hiking trail

While few attempt the entire route at once, most hikers — including myself — prefer to take it section by section over two to four days, choosing paths that offer the best blend of scenery, history, and accessibility.

📌 Official Trail Map: Kunisaki Trail Official Site

Trail Overview: Recommended Sections

1

Futago-ji Temple (両子寺) – A Spiritual Gateway

📍 Starting Point: Futago-ji Temple Parking Lot
⏳ Time Needed: 1−2 hours
🌿 Highlights: Twin Nio guardian statues, mountain temple, ancient atmosphere

Futago-ji Temple, founded more than 1,300 years ago, is the spiritual heart of Kunisaki. Nestled within a dense cedar forest, the temple is dedicated to Fudo Myo-o, a deity known as the Immovable Wisdom King, whose fierce countenance symbolizes protection and inner strength.

At the entrance, visitors are greeted by two towering Nio guardian statues, the largest in the region. Beyond them, moss-covered stone steps ascend toward the temple halls, where the silence is broken only by the rustling of trees and the occasional ringing of a temple bell.

Visiting in early winter, I was fortunate to witness the temple blanketed in a rare layer of snow. In the greener months, the scene transforms, with thick carpets of moss covering the stone pathways, lending an otherworldly beauty to the site.

2

Mount Futago Summit (両子山) – A Panoramic Ascent

📍 Starting Point: Futago-ji Temple Entrance
⏳ Time: ~1 hour ascent
🌿 Highlights: Sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea, dense forest trails

From Futago-ji, the trail ascends toward Mount Futago (721m), the highest peak on the Kunisaki Peninsula. The climb is steep but immensely rewarding, offering panoramic views of rolling valleys, forested ridges, and the distant Seto Inland Sea.

3

Itsutsuji Fudo (五辻不動)

📍 Starting Point: Kyusento-ji Temple Ruins
⏳ Time: ~30 minutes
🌿 Highlights: mountain views, ancient stone carvings

snowy steps to a small temple in a snowy forest

Best Time to Hike

The trail is accessible year-round, but the best seasons for hiking are:

March–May

Spring

Cherry blossoms and fresh greenery create a stunning landscape.
September–November

Autumn

Vibrant fall foliage enhances the beauty of the trail.
December–February

Winter

A peaceful season with fewer visitors, though caution is needed on icy paths.

What to Bring for the Trek

Packing wisely is essential for an enjoyable trek. Here’s what you should bring:

✅ Hiking boots — The trails are often rocky and steep, so good ankle support is a must.
✅ Rain gear — Weather in Kunisaki can change suddenly, so a light waterproof jacket is essential.
✅ Plenty of water — There are few vending machines or shops on the trail, so bring enough to stay hydrated.
✅ Snacks — Small energy bars or rice balls (onigiri) are great for keeping your energy up.
✅ Portable phone charger — Phone signal can be weak in remote areas, so ensure your battery lasts.

How to Get to the Kunisaki Peninsula Minemichi Long Trail

From Fukuoka
Take the JR Sonic Limited Express from Hakata Station to Beppu Station (~2 hours).
From Beppu, take a bus to Kunisaki (~1.5 hours).

From Tokyo or Osaka
Fly to Oita Airport, then take a local bus (~40 min) to Kunisaki. For a scenic and relaxing journey, you can also take a ferry from Osaka to Beppu. This option can also save you money on accommodation, as you will stay on the ship (which offers options ranging from economy seating to private cabins). See more on the Sunflower Ferry Official Site.

Car Rental Option
Renting a car is the best way to explore Kunisaki, as public transportation is limited.

Conclusion: A Journey Through Time and Faith

For those who have already experienced Oita’s onsen culture, a pilgrimage walk through the Kunisaki Peninsula and Usa Jingu offers a profound alternative. Steeped in history and spiritual energy, this journey allows travelers to connect with Japan’s past, immerse themselves in nature, and find peace away from the crowds.

Next time you visit Oita, consider setting aside time for a pilgrimage walk — whether for personal reflection or simply to experience a different side of this fascinating prefecture.

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