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yamaguchi Prefecture
Where to Stop
Before Kyushu
A 2-Day Ube & Sanyo-Onoda Itinerary (No Car Needed)
Most travelers rush through Shin-Yamaguchi Station on their way to Fukuoka or deeper into Kyushu.
Just off the main Shinkansen route, however, lies a quieter side of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Ube and Sanyo-Onoda, where outdoor sculpture art, retro Showa-era cafes, and local hot springs offer a slower pace of travel.
If you’re traveling via Hiroshima, Okayama, or heading toward Hakata and Kyushu, this 2-day stopover can be added seamlessly to your journey.
- Getting to Ube & Sanyo-Onoda (No Car Needed)
- Day 1 — Ube Travel Guide: Sculpture Art, Retro Cafes & Onsen
- Why Ube Became an Art City
- Tokiwa Park — The heart of over 60 years of outdoor sculpture history
- Tokiwa Museum & Garden — Tropical Plants, Architecture, and Quiet Corners
- Coffee Shop Jagaimo — A 50-Year-Old Showa-Era Café in Ube
- GLYCINES & Flowers of Romance — Records, Coffee, at a Former Clinic
- Izakaya Danjuurou (団十郎) — Local Dining Near Ube-Shinkawa Station
- Where to Stay in Ube — Katakura Onsen Kubota
- Day 2 — Sanyo-Onoda: Retro Streets, Traditional Sweets, Glass Craft & the Seto Inland Sea
- Morinaga Shoindo (もりなが松陰堂) — gluten-free breakfast option
- Kirara Glass Future Museum — Contemporary Glass Art by the Seto Inland Sea
- Lunch by the Sea: Sol Poniente — Kengo Kuma Architecture on the Coast
- Sunset at Kuguri Rock — One of Japan’s Top Sunset Spots
- Ending the Journey at Asa Station — Easy Connections Across Western Japan
Getting to Ube & Sanyo-Onoda without a car
Ube and Sanyo-Onoda are easily accessed via Shin-Yamaguchi Station, one of the most convenient Shinkansen hubs in western Japan.
- Shinkansen Access Times
- Shin-Osaka → Shin-Yamaguchi: approx. 2 hours
- Hiroshima → Shin-Yamaguchi: approx. 25–30 minutes
- Hakata (Fukuoka) → Shin-Yamaguchi: approx. 30–35 minutes
- Local Trains from Shin-YamaguchiFrom Shin-Yamaguchi Station, local JR lines connect directly to both cities:
- JR Ube Line: Shin-Yamaguchi → Ube-Shinkawa Station (approx. 40 minutes)
- JR Sanyo Line: Shin-Yamaguchi → Onoda / Asa / Sanyo-Onoda area
Once in town, most cafes, museums, retro streets, and onsen are reached via short taxi rides (10−20 minutes) or walking, making the area very manageable without a car.
💡 Travel Tip (Luggage-Friendly Stopover)
Coin lockers are available at Shin-Yamaguchi Station and Ube-Shinkawa Station, allowing you to explore hands-free.
Coin lockers are available at Shin-Yamaguchi Station and Ube-Shinkawa Station, allowing you to explore hands-free.
DAY 1
Ube Travel Guide: Sculpture Art, Retro Cafes & Onsen
Ube City, located in western Yamaguchi Prefecture, developed rapidly in the early 20th century as a coal-mining and cement hub that supported Japan’s modernization. This industrial past still shapes the city today, especially around Ube-Shinkawa Station, where a dense cluster of local izakaya (traditional Japanese pubs) reflects decades of working-class nightlife.
In the postwar period, Ube reached a turning point as the city began addressing pollution issues such as air quality, choosing to reinvent itself through culture and green spaces rather than turning away from its past.
Why Ube Became an Art City
The project began in 1961 as a citizen-led initiative called the Ube City Open-Air Sculpture Exhibition, and it is now regarded as one of the world’s longest-running outdoor sculpture exhibitions.
Instead of confining art to museums, Ube placed large-scale sculptures throughout public parks and everyday spaces. Materials once associated with industry — steel, stone, concrete — were reimagined as tools of expression.
Today, Ube stands out as a rare example of a Japanese industrial city that transformed itself into an open-air art destination, without losing its local rhythm.
Tokiwa Park — The heart of over 60 years of outdoor sculpture history
Tokiwa Park is an essential place to experience more than six decades of outdoor sculpture exhibitions in Ube. Surrounded by works displayed throughout the park, it is where the city’s identity as a "city of sculpture" can be felt most strongly.
How to Get to Tokiwa Park
From Shin-Yamaguchi Station (North Exit), Ube City buses run directly to Tokiwa Park Entrance in about 25−30 minutes. The bus accepts Suica, PASMO, and other IC cards and drops you near the main entrance.
How to Get to Tokiwa Park
From Shin-Yamaguchi Station (North Exit), Ube City buses run directly to Tokiwa Park Entrance in about 25−30 minutes. The bus accepts Suica, PASMO, and other IC cards and drops you near the main entrance.
Tokiwa Park is expansive, combining lakes, lawns, and quiet walking paths designed for slow exploration. Large-scale outdoor sculptures appear naturally along the water’s edge and across open fields — there are no barriers, no gallery walls, and no fixed routes.
Art here exists as part of the landscape rather than as an attraction you "visit."
One of the park’s most unexpected landmarks is the Spear of Longinus, an official sculpture created in collaboration with Evangelion. Its presence reflects a deeper connection: Evangelion creator Anno Hideaki was born in Ube, and the city has subtly embraced this pop-culture link as part of its modern cultural identity.
Tokiwa Museum & Garden — Tropical Plants, Architecture, and Quiet Corners
Within Tokiwa Park, make time for the Tokiwa Museum (Midorihanatochokokuno Museum), a climate-controlled greenhouse showcasing tropical and subtropical plants from around the world.
The interior offers a year-round experience and an interesting contrast to the outdoor sculpture fields. There’s also a small cafe inside, ideal for grabbing a drink or light snack before continuing your walk through the park.
Beyond the greenhouse, Tokiwa Park unfolds further: a traditional Japanese house, a small lakeside shrine, and shaded paths that reward slow exploration.
Because of its scale and variety, plan to spend two to three hours here before heading back toward Ube-Shinkawa Station for lunch, cafes, and evening dining.
Coffee Shop Jagaimo — A 50-Year-Old Showa-Era Café in Ube
Just a five-minute walk from Ube-Shinkawa Station, Coffee Shop Jagaimo, is one of Ube’s most beloved retro cafes.
The cafe opened in 1975, founded by Kato Kimie, who originally worked as a clothing designer using vintage textiles. The name Jagaimo simply means "potato" — and when I asked why she chose it, she laughed and said, "Why not? I’ve always liked potatoes."
Inside, the atmosphere is unmistakably Showa-era: soft lighting, handwritten details, mismatched seating, and a counter where you can sip coffee while watching the street outside.
I ordered the omurice curry, a local favorite: fluffy omelette over rice, finished with a comforting curry sauce. And because "amaimono wa betsubara" (there's always room for dessert), I added a slice of raspberry jam cake.
Paired with hand-dripped coffee, it became one of the most memorable cafe stops of my Yamaguchi trip.
GLYCINES & Flowers of Romance — Records, Coffee, at a Former Clinic
As if Jagaimo wasn’t retro enough, I continued on foot (you can also catch a taxi) to my next spot.
Housed inside a renovated former clinic, this two-level space blends music, coffee, and architecture in a way that feels quietly special.
On the ground floor, Flowers of Romance is a carefully curated record shop. The selection spans Japanese and overseas rock, but fans of Japanese city pop will find rare gems here, including artists like Yamashita Tatsuro and Yumin, records you’d expect to hunt for in Tokyo, not casually discover in regional Ube.
On the third floor, GLYCINES is a calm cafe with seasonal drinks and a small terrace. The space often hosts pop-ups with local designers and creatives, so it’s worth checking their official page before visiting.
💡 Local tip
Many independent cafes and shops in Ube adjust hours seasonally. Google Maps isn’t always accurate — checking Instagram is the safest way to avoid missing a spot.
🔗Flowers of Romance 🔗GLYCINES
Many independent cafes and shops in Ube adjust hours seasonally. Google Maps isn’t always accurate — checking Instagram is the safest way to avoid missing a spot.
🔗Flowers of Romance 🔗GLYCINES
Izakaya Danjuurou (団十郎) — Local Dining Near Ube-Shinkawa Station
The streets around Ube-Shinkawa Station are lined with izakayas, a legacy of Ube’s industrial past and long evenings after work. I chose Danjuurou (団十郎) instinctively, and it turned out to be a highlight.
Inside, the space feels almost ceremonial. The counter and bar are built from beautifully aged sakura (cherry wood). Staff shared that the owners once worked as wood suppliers, and unused high-quality wood originally prepared for a temple project was repurposed here instead.
The craftsmanship alone is worth noticing.
What to Order at Danjuurou
What to Order at Danjuurou
Assorted Sashimi Platter
（お刺身盛り合わせ）
（お刺身盛り合わせ）
A selection of seasonal local fish. Exceptionally fresh and best enjoyed with sake — this is the order locals start with.
Deep-Fried Small Fish
（小魚の唐揚げ）
（小魚の唐揚げ）
Crispy seasonal fish such as megochi, rencho, and kintaro. Simple, everyday dishes that rarely appear on tourist menus.
Where to Stay in Ube — Katakura Onsen Kubota
While staying near Ube-Shinkawa Station is convenient, I chose a quieter option: Katakura Onsen Kubota, a natural hot spring inn with over 100 years of history, located at the foot of the mountains.
The lovely owner, who can also assist guests in English, offers free pickup and drop-off from nearby JR stations and Yamaguchi Ube Airport. A generous level of hospitality, especially helpful if you're traveling without a car.
After dinner, soaking in the onsen while listening to the water and night air felt like the perfect contrast to the city’s creative energy.
DAY 2
Sanyo-Onoda: Retro Streets, Traditional Sweets, Glass Craft & the Seto Inland Sea
In the morning, the owner of our onsen kindly dropped us off at Ube-Shinkawa Station, making the transition effortless. From here, we boarded a local JR train to Asa Station (厚狭駅) — a key junction connecting Yamaguchi Prefecture with Kyushu and western Honshu, and the natural gateway to Sanyo-Onoda.
For Evangelion fans, Ube-Shinkawa Station is sometimes spoken of as a "pilgrimage site," as it is associated with Evangelion: 3.0+1.0 Thrice Upon a Time.
The short train ride itself sets the tone for the day. The yellow local train passes residential neighborhoods and industrial edges, gently revealing the working-class roots that shaped this region.
Morinaga Shoindo (もりなが松陰堂) — gluten-free breakfast option
After arriving at Asa Station, we walked through quiet retro streets to what became my favorite breakfast stop of the trip: Morinaga Shoindo.
This long-established wagashi shop dates back to 1905 (Meiji 38). It originally began as a castella maker, after the founder received a recipe through a personal connection with a renowned castella craftsman in Nagasaki.
Today, Morinaga Shoindo is best known for its brown rice ohagi (Japanese sweet made from rice and coated in sweet bean paste) and rice-flour muffins — naturally gluten-free, light, and deeply satisfying. Flavors change with the seasons, including berry, persimmon, banana, and other fruit-based varieties.
The shop is family-run, and you feel that warmth immediately. I sat by the window, enjoying my ohagi, watching locals across the street take part in morning radio calisthenics (ラジオ体操). In that quiet moment, I felt less like a visitor and more like part of the neighborhood’s everyday rhythm.
Kirara Glass Future Museum — Contemporary Glass Art by the Seto Inland Sea
From Asa, we continued toward the coast to visit the Kirara Glass Future Museum (きららガラス未来館), one of Sanyo-Onoda's most distinctive cultural spaces.
You can reach the museum by local bus (about 40 minutes from Asa Station) — just check the schedule on Google Maps or the local timetable, it’s easier than it sounds.
Inside, the museum focuses on contemporary glass art inspired by the transparency, color, and light of the Seto Inland Sea. One side of the building houses working studios, where glass artists create pieces behind a glass wall, while the other side offers hands-on glass workshops for visitors.
I made my own glass bracelet, watching molten glass take shape just a few meters away as artisans worked with practiced precision.
Even without joining a workshop, the museum is worth visiting for its calm atmosphere and the chance to browse works by local glass artists.
Lunch by the Sea: Sol Poniente — Kengo Kuma Architecture on the Coast
Less than a 12-minute walk from the museum, we stopped for lunch at Sol Poniente, a seaside restaurant overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.
Like the Kirara Glass Future Museum, Sol Poniente was also designed by Kengo Kuma and his architectural studio, including the interior. Together, these buildings turn this stretch of coast into a quiet architectural destination in its own right.
The space feels light and open, with large windows framing the sea. The menu centers on Italian-inspired dishes made with local ingredients, best enjoyed slowly while watching ships pass across the water.
After lunch, it’s easy to continue on foot. Walking along the shoreline, picking up seashells, stretching your legs by the water, or grabbing a coffee to go and enjoying the coastal breeze.
Sunset at Kuguri Rock — One of Japan’s Top Sunset Spots
In the afternoon, we headed to Kuguri Rock (くぐり岩). The surrounding Yakeno Coast is known as one of Japan’s Top 100 Sunset Spots, celebrated for its beautiful evening light.
From the restaurant area, you can walk about 3 km along the coast if you enjoy long seaside strolls, or take a local bus to save time and energy.
Kuguri Rock (くぐり岩) lies within Motoyama Misaki Park and can only be approached during low tide, when the retreating sea reveals dramatic layers of stone.
These rocks are believed to have formed around 40 million years ago, later sculpted into their current form through weathering and erosion.
We missed the low-tide timing (a reminder to always check), so we couldn’t approach the rocks closely. Still, the beach itself was beautiful — and locals mentioned that natural amber can sometimes be found here after storms.
💡 Travel tip
Check tide tables before visiting. If the tide is high, access to the rocks isn’t possible, but the coastline remains an excellent spot for sunset photography and evening walks.
Check tide tables before visiting. If the tide is high, access to the rocks isn’t possible, but the coastline remains an excellent spot for sunset photography and evening walks.
Ending the Journey at Asa Station — Easy Connections Across Western Japan
As evening approached, our journey naturally returned to Asa Station, a key junction that makes this two-day route easy to integrate into a longer trip.
From here, you can:
- Continue west toward Kyushu, including Hakata / Fukuoka
- Head east toward Okayama, Osaka, or Kyoto
- Or loop back deeper into Yamaguchi Prefecture to explore its coast and craft towns
This flexibility is what makes Ube and Sanyo-Onoda such a satisfying stopover. Without needing a car, you can experience outdoor art, retro cafes, traditional sweets and natural hot springs — all while staying directly on the Shinkansen route.
If you’re continuing through Yamaguchi, this itinerary pairs naturally with Iwakuni and Yamaguchi City, offering a deeper look at western Japan before heading on to Kyushu.
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