Hiroshima and Nagasaki Itinerary

Before 1945, the two cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki had very little in common. Hiroshima was a bustling, rapidly modernizing city, spurred by its militarist importance following the first Sino-Japanese war in 1894. Meanwhile, Nagasaki, after over 200 years of operating as Japan’s only connection to the western world during the Edo period, enjoyed a rich mix of cultural exchange. The two cities differ greatly geographically as well, with the flat river plane of Hiroshima contrasting sharply with the mountainous hills of Nagasaki. If not for the events of World War Two, there would be little reason to group these two cities together.

However, that all changed when the Americans chose their strategic targets in 1945. Both cities, regardless of their previous differences, were destroyed in the same devastating way, an act that has forever connected Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

 From the ashes of the atomic attacks, both cities have returned, and even flourished, due to the love and determination of the surviving residents and their descendants. It’s hard to believe today, in the 21st century, these thriving cities were once the victims of the most powerful bombs the world has ever seen. While visiting both Hiroshima and Nagasaki, it’s important to remember the trails of the past while celebrating the vibrancy of the present.

Thanks to its Shinkansen (bullet train) station, Hiroshima is easily accessible from all of the major international airports in Japan. The station itself is modern and convenient, and easy to navigate. If you’re traveling with more than light luggage, you can utilize a delivery service to have your luggage sent ahead to your hotel, freeing up your day for unencumbered exploration.

First things first, after a long trip on the train I was ready to eat! The most recognizable food in Hiroshima is their style of okonomiyaki. While okonomiyaki is often associated with Osaka, Hiroshima style sets itself apart with the addition of fried noodles to the classic, savory batter.

I visited Hiroshima Okonomiyaki Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba, an okonomiyaki theme park located a three minute walk from Hiroshima Station South exit. Lined up one after another, you'll find more than a dozen okonomiyaki shops to choose from. The staff were incredibly warm and welcoming—such a refreshing change from the typically polite but distant service I often experience in Tokyo. At the place we chose, my okonomiyaki was cooked right before my eyes on a sizzling grill and served fresh off the heat, topped with a perfectly fried egg.The generous layers of cabbage, noodles and meat created a mountain of savory flavors that was both tasty and super filling.

Since I’d sent my luggage to the hotel from the station, I was free to head straight to the Hiroshima Memorial Park.

Visiting this place is deeply moving. It’s hard to believe that this quiet, green space was once Hiroshima’s bustling red-light and entertainment district, until everything changed in an instant.

Walking there feels like walking on bones, the memory of the tragedy is embedded in the earth itself. It felt rather eerie, despite the sunlight bathing the white, open grounds. The landscaping is calm and serene, but there’s an unmistakable, lingering heaviness in the air. I felt both sadness and a strange pull toward this space.

I felt especially moved by the statue of the young girl holding a crane. She’s inspired by Sadako Sasaki and the thousand cranes she folded in hope.

Sadako was just two years old when the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. Although she wasn’t injured in the initial blast, she developed leukemia in seventh grade due to radiation exposure from the bomb. After hearing about the story of the 1000 paper cranes from a friend, she spent her final days in the hospital folding cranes. According to the legend, if a sick persons folds 1000 paper cranes, they will recover. By the time she passed, she’d folded well over a thousand cranes. To honor her memory, her classmates and others touched by her story raised money to commission a sculpture, as a gesture of remembrance passed from one generation to the next.

If you're interested in learning more about the history and meaning behind these places, you can also join the free guided tour offered by the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.

I didn’t take any photos inside the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (official site). It didn’t feel right. Some places ask for silence, and this is one of them. The exhibits were emotionally overwhelming, letters from children, burnt school uniforms, blackened lunch boxes.

Still, I’m grateful I went. As difficult as it was to walk through, I believe everyone should visit at least once in their life.

One of the most meaningful parts of my visit was attending the Hibaku (survivors of the atomic bombings) Experience Lecture. It’s held in the special exhibition room on the basement floor of the East Building, and I was surprised to learn that it’s free and doesn’t require a reservation. They even offer an English session once a day, so make sure to check the schedule before walking through the exhibit.

During this 45-minute session, survivors of the atomic bombing, or their family members, share firsthand stories: what life was like before the bomb, what happened on that day, and how they’ve continued living ever since. What shocked me most was how many survivors spoke about carrying deep guilt simply for surviving, while their friends, classmates, and families were gone in an instant. First hand accounts of history give a unique insight that can’t be replicated even with the best exhibits, so I encourage everyone to join.

Orizuru Tower, while providing a great view of the city, also has a symbolic power. It’s named after the paper crane (orizuru), a symbol of peace. From up there, you can look out at the city while folding a crane to add to the tower’s glass wall, a gesture that feels both personal and collective.

What struck me most wasn’t just what I saw, but what I knew: that this peaceful, green city was once a burned ruin. Seeing it from above, it’s hard to imagine the devastation. But maybe that’s the point: to witness how far Hiroshima has come, and how a city can rise again.

After my short trip to Miyajima, I went to my accommodation for the evening: RIHGA Royal Hotel Hiroshima. Since it’s close to the Peace Park, it’s a great location for exploring the city. The view from this hotel is incredible- you can enjoy taking in the city from the bar/lobby (which is free, unlike the observation deck in Orizuru Tower), and the rooms have great views as well.

If you’re tired of mass-produced souvenirs and surface-level experiences, tamaki niime offers something real.

Yes, it’s far. Yes, it takes effort. But the kindness of the people and the purity of the river made it feel like home.