yamaguchi Prefecture

2-Day Itinerary:
Iwakuni & Yamaguchi

Samurai History, Kintai Bridge & Cultural Sites
Many travelers don’t realize it, but Yamaguchi Prefecture is one of the easiest places to reach in Western Japan. Whether you’re coming from Tokyo, Osaka, Hiroshima, or Fukuoka, the region is fully connected by Shinkansen and two convenient airports, making Iwakuni and Yamaguchi ideal destinations even for first-time visitors to Japan.
The two main gateways, Shin-Iwakuni Station and Shin-Yamaguchi Station, sit along the JR Sanyo Shinkansen line. From here, you can reach iconic spots like Kintai Bridge, Iwakuni Castle, Rurikoji Pagoda, and Yamaguchi City’s historic temples with simple local bus or taxi connections. Flights from Haneda Airport also arrive daily, offering direct access to Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport and Yamaguchi Ube Airport.
If you’re planning your first trip to the area and wondering how to get around, this guide breaks it all down clearly. With travel times, airport information, rail passes, and easy route suggestions, so you can travel confidently, even if you’ve never visited Yamaguchi before.

How to Get to Iwakuni & Yamaguchi

Getting to Yamaguchi is easier than most travelers expect. Shin-Iwakuni and Shin-Yamaguchi Stations are directly connected by Shinkansen to Tokyo, Osaka, Hiroshima, and Fukuoka. When I looked at the timetable, I couldn’t believe Hiroshima was only 15 minutes away!
  • Shinkansen travel times

    Route

    Duration

    Tokyo → Shin-Iwakuni

    ~4 hours

    Osaka → Shin-Iwakuni

    ~3 hours

    Hiroshima → Shin-Iwakuni

    ~15 minutes

    Shin-Iwakuni → Shin-Yamaguchi

    ~30 minutes

    Hakata (Fukuoka) → Shin-Yamaguchi

    Covered by JR Hiroshima–Yamaguchi Area Pass

  • By Plane
    You can also reach the region by air. There are two airports: Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport, located just 10 minutes from Kintai Bridge, and Yamaguchi Ube Airport, which connects to Shin-Yamaguchi Station by airport bus in about 30 minutes. Direct flights from Tokyo (Haneda) operate daily via ANA and JAL, making it a fast option if you’re short on time.
  • Useful Links for Planning
DAY 1

Iwakuni Travel Guide: Samurai History & Kintai Bridge

Iwakuni Through a Human Lens. The Early Life of Uno Chiyo

Most people begin their Iwakuni itinerary with the famous Kintai Bridge. I decided to start with a person. Our first stop is the childhood house of Uno Chiyo (1897−1996), one of Japan’s most distinctive modern female writers.
Close-up of writing pencils used for literature and calligraphy, reflecting the creative world of Uno Chiyo in Iwakuni
Portrait of an elderly woman in a patterned kimono, evoking everyday life and character in early 20th-century Iwakuni
Simple interior of a traditional Japanese room in Iwakuni, with a small flower arrangement by the window
She didn’t just write about life, she lived it boldly.
Married three times, unafraid of controversy, and known for designing her own kimono line, she challenged the social norms of her time.
The rooms in her house are simple and full of light. It feels less like a museum and more like a house where someone still might be writing in the next room.

Kintai Bridge – Edo-era Craftsmanship still alive

A short stroll from Uno Chiyo’s house brings us to the Kintai Bridge. Built in 1673 by the Kikkawa Hiroyoshi, it stretches elegantly across the Nishiki River with five wooden arches. It is counted among Japan’s three most famous bridges, along with Meganebashi in Nagasaki and Nihonbashi in Tokyo
Wide view of Kintai Bridge and surrounding landscape in Iwakuni, Yamaguchi
Unlike most bridges, it was constructed using Edo-period carpentry techniques together with metal nails and straps. For centuries, its wooden arches have been periodically rebuilt by skilled craftsmen, preserving this traditional technique.
We were fortunate to meet Mr. Okikawa — one of the carpenters who took part in the Heisei reconstruction of Kintai Bridge between 2001 and 2004. During that project, the arches were rebuilt using techniques that have been passed down since the original Edo-period construction, and at the time he was the youngest craftsman on the team.
Through his company, Architecture Studio Okikawa, he continues to maintain temples, shrines and Edo-style wooden techniques. Speaking with him, we understood how much skill and dedication it takes to protect this living piece of history.
What stood out during our conversation was how precision and endurance define this work. A single beam can take weeks to fit. Weather, humidity, and the weight of the wood all have to be felt, not just measured. As he said:
"You cannot learn this from diagrams. You need to listen to the wood."
Kintai is beautiful in every season. In spring, the cherry blossoms frame the arches. In autumn, red maple leaves reflect in the river.
Boatman navigating the Nishiki River with Kintai Bridge in the background
To see the bridge differently, the best way is a boat tour on the Nishiki River. From the water, the arches feel more monumental and the craft becomes more visible. The river moves slowly, and the view changes with every meter — sometimes the bridge looks like a painting, sometimes like an engineering puzzle.
The tour usually includes a seasonal bento with grilled ayu (sweetfish) lunch, that tastes even better as you look at Kintai Bridge from the water.

Ropeway to Iwakuni Castle – Best View of Kintai Bridge

After visiting the bridge, it is worth taking the ropeway to Iwakuni Castle. As the gondola rises, the town unfolds beneath in a mosaic of rivers, bridges and rooftops. From above, the Kintai Bridge looks both delicate and commanding and the Nishiki River curves like a silver ribbon.
Cable car climbing Mount Shiroyama toward Iwakuni Castle
Panoramic view of Iwakuni city and Kintai Bridge from Mount Shiroyama
Cherry blossom buds beginning to bloom near Kintai Bridge in early spring
Seeing the town from above helps understand why this location mattered to the samurai. Iwakuni Castle, with its hilltop position, gives clear sightlines over rivers, roads, and approaches to the town. A natural advantage in defense and governance.

Kashiwabara Museum — A Glimpse Into Samurai Life in Iwakuni

Another interesting stop next by the ropeway station is the Kashiwabara Museum. This is a private collection carefully gathered over decades by the Kashiwabara family.
The collection spans real swords and armor, calligraphy tools, tea utensils, and personal belongings of samurai families. The items, some worn, some torn, reflect eras of war and peace and the hands that once used them.
Edo-period cut glass sake cup exhibited at Kashiwabara Museum
Detail of a katana blade and scabbard showing traditional craftsmanship
Samurai helmet with pincers-shaped horns displayed at Kashiwabara Museum in Iwakuni
What stood out is that samurai were not only warriors. They trained their mind as carefully as their body, studying literature, philosophy, tea ceremony and ethics. As you walk through the museum, you can feel the discipline and values that shaped their lives.
DAY 2

Yamaguchi City Travel Guide: Temples, Food & Spiritual Culture

Yamaguchi City is often called "the Kyoto of the West" and is one of the most underrated places to visit in Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Rurikoji Pagoda — A Muromachi-Era Landmark in Yamaguchi

Our morning began at Rurikuji Pagoda, quietly located in Kozan Park, a place that locals take genuine pride in. In front of the pagoda, a pond glimmers with koi fish, with sunlight rippling across the surface and along the walking path.
The pagoda dates back to 1442, built by the Ouchi family during the Muromachi period. It is one of the few remaining pagodas from this era and is now designated as a National Treasure of Japan.
If you join a special guided tour, you can see the shinbashira — the central pillar of the pagoda — which is usually kept behind closed doors. This wooden core is the key to the pagoda’s strength. During earthquakes, it doesn’t resist movement but moves with it, allowing the structure to sway instead of break.
This flexibility is why pagodas have survived centuries of earthquakes.
Wooden interior structure of Rurikoji Temple showing traditional Japanese joinery, Yamaguchi
Iron decorative fitting on a wooden beam at Rurikoji Temple, Yamaguchi City
Rurikoji Pagoda rising above a hillside cemetery in Yamaguchi, viewed from a scenic overlook

Toshunji Temple – Traces of Mori Motonari

Just a short walk away is Toshunji Temple, a place that offers a gentle contrast to the commanding presence of the Rurikoji Pagoda. You find details — a weathered wooden gate from the Muromachi period (Important Cultural Property), stone paths worn down by centuries of footsteps, and sunlight filtering through the trees in narrow lines.
Entrance gate of Toshunji Temple surrounded by forested hills in Yamaguchi, associated with warlord Mori Motonari
Stone Buddhist statue and purification ladles at Toshunji Temple in Yamaguchi City
Kristina ringing the temple bell using large prayer beads at Toshunji Temple, Yamaguchi, once connected to Mori Motonari
This was the family temple of Mori Motonari — the Sengoku warlord often associated with the Lesson of the Three Arrows. According to a well-known story, he gave each of his sons one arrow and asked them to break it. Then he gave them three arrows tied together, and none of them could snap it. Whether legend or lesson, it captures his philosophy: strength comes from unity.

Where to Eat in Yamaguchi – Kawara Soba at Choshuen Restaurant

In front of the pagoda’s gate stands Choshuen, a perfect place for a break. This restaurant is famous for Kawara Soba, the roof tile noodles.
Delicious kawara soba set with multiple sidedishes
Kawara soba was created in 1962 in Shimonoseki by a local restaurant owner inspired by a historical fact: during the Seinan War (1877), soldiers from the Choshu Domain used roof tiles to cook wild vegetables and meat over open fire, as tiles held heat well and were easy to find when traveling.
The modern version of the dish was born much later: green tea soba, thinly sliced omelette, beef, seaweed, and lemon mixed with spicy dipping sauce. Its popularity grew so much that Yamaguchi Prefecture officially recognized it as a local specialty.

Kyogen Experience at Noda Shrine

The best way to end the day in Yamaguchi City is with an unforgettable experience at the Noda Shrine Noh theatre.

Noda Shrine Noh Theater — Japan’s Living Cultural Heritage

Noda Shrine Noh Theater — Japan’s Living Cultural Heritage

After exploring Kozan Park (Rurikoji Pagoda & Toshunji Temple), we took a 20 min walk to Noda Shrine Noh theatre. It is one of the few places in Yamaguchi City where a real Noh stage is still preserved and used. Kyogen (狂言) is one of Japan’s oldest performing arts and is registered by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
For our visit, we were given special permission to step onto the Noh stage used for Kyogen performances — something normally reserved only for actors. Before entering, we were asked to say "omaku", the word used in Kyogen to greet the spirits that reside in the stage.
Noh performers entering the stage beneath a multicolored ceremonial banner at Noda Shrine Noh Theater
Hand-painted pine tree backdrop reflected on the wooden floor of the Noh stage at Noda Shrine, Yamaguchi
Noh performer walking across the stage in traditional costume at Noda Shrine Noh Theater
One of the most fascinating details is hidden beneath the stage. In many traditional Noh theaters (including here), ceramic jars are placed under the floor — to amplify footsteps and voice naturally, turning the whole stage into a living instrument.
Noh performance scene with actors in period costumes on stage at Noda Shrine, Yamaguchi
We were also able to watch a short demonstration performed by two actors. One played a male role and the other a female role — but both were performed by men.
The most fascinating part of this experience for me was being allowed to wear garments and see real masks up close. We didn’t try the masks on, they are far too fragile, hand-carved from wood and treated almost like living beings. Some are passed down through generations, and even professional actors handle them with great care.
It made me want to see a full Kyogen performance one day.

Final Thoughts

What makes Yamaguchi valuable as a two-day stop is its position. It sits between Hiroshima and Kyushu, connected by Shinkansen, meaning you don’t need extra travel time to include it in your route. Instead of going straight from Hiroshima to Fukuoka, this trip allows you to step briefly into Japan’s older timeline.
In just two days, you can experience:
  • Edo-era engineering at Kintai Bridge
  • Muromachi-era architecture at Rurikoji Pagoda
  • Samurai education and lifestyle at Kashiwabara Museum
  • Traditional performing arts at Noda Shrine’s Noh stage
Edo-era engineering at Kintai Bridge
Muromachi-era architecture at Rurikoji Pagoda
Samurai education and lifestyle at Kashiwabara Museum
Traditional performing arts at Noda Shrine’s Noh stage
After visiting Iwakuni and Yamaguchi City, your journey can continue easily:
  • Hiroshima is only 15 minutes away — perfect if you want to visit Itsukushima Shrine or learn about modern history.
  • Fukuoka (Hakata) is about 35 minutes from Shin-Yamaguchi — an easy entry point to Kyushu.
  • From Hakata, you can reach Beppu’s hot springs, Nagasaki’s history, or Kumamoto’s castle within just a few hours.
  • For slower travelers, Yamaguchi itself continues into Hagi, Ube, Sanyo Onoda and Akiyoshidai — coastal towns, pottery villages, limestone caves, and cycling routes.
After that, the decision is simple:
Go deeper into Yamaguchi, or keep moving toward Kyushu.
Either way, you travel forward, but with a little more history in your pocket.
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