Ehime Prefecture

Discovering Hidden Charms: Ozu City, Ehime

A journey off the beaten path in Japan
In recent years, Japan has witnessed a surge in tourism, attracting visitors to iconic destinations such as Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. However, the rise of over-tourism has sparked concerns about the authenticity of travel experiences in these bustling cities. In response, many travelers are now venturing to off-the-beaten-path locations to embrace a more genuine and less crowded adventure.

In my quest to discover such hidden gems, I recently explored Shikoku, one of Japan's four major islands, standing alongside Hokkaido, Honshu, and Kyushu. Despite being relatively undiscovered by mainstream tourists, Shikoku is a treasure waiting to be explored. Comprising four prefectures—Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi—the Shikoku region is a picturesque haven reminiscent of scenes from Studio Ghibli movies. The breathtaking Iya Valley in Tokushima transports you into the world of "Princess Mononoke," while Kagawa's Shodoshima Olive Park mirrors the enchanting setting of "Kiki’s Delivery Service." Kōchi served as the backdrop for the 1993 Studio Ghibli film "Ocean Waves" (Umi ga Kikoeru), and Ehime's Dogo Onsen is used as one of the main models for Yubaba’s bathhouse from "Spirited Away." With all these magical places, it's truly worth considering adding Shikoku to your Japan travel plans!
Map of Shikoku

Map of Tokushima, Kagawa, Ehime, and Kochi prefectures

Now, let me introduce you to a lesser-known city in Ehime Prefecture. Trust me, once you experience the charm of this hidden gem, you won't regret the detour from the well-trodden tourist path!

Little Kyoto of Iyo
with easy access

Welcome to Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture, famously dubbed the "Little Kyoto of Iyo." This city boasts a vibrant history, flourishing in sericulture, traditional papermaking, and lacquerware production from the Edo period to the early Showa era. What makes Ozu truly special is that the atmosphere of those bygone days is still very much alive here. You can immerse yourself in this historical charm by strolling through streets that have faithfully preserved the architecture and town layout from the Edo to Meiji periods. Picture this – samurai residences and merchant houses standing side by side along streets where the old town layout remains, creating a reminiscent atmosphere of a Little Kyoto in various corners.
You might worry that such picturesque places in Japan are hard to reach without a car or knowledge of the language. Fear not! After a flight from Tokyo or any other major city in Japan (you can even book a night bus from Osaka to Matsuyama for less than 5000 yen!), you'll find yourself at the main airport of Ehime - Matsuyama Airport. From there, simply hop on a bus to Ozu (you can find the schedule on Google Maps from the airport to JR Ozu Station). If you decide to spend a night in Ozu (which I'll explain later), free shuttles to and from Matsuyama Airport or Matsuyama Train Station are available.

Endowed with a rich cultural heritage, in recent years, Ozu City faced challenges like depopulation, an aging population, and a declining birthrate, leading to vacant homes. Beloved book shops and traditional cafes (kissaten) were forced to close due to a lack of customers, leading to the disappearance of both jobs and lodgings at an alarming rate. The once vibrant castle-town now grappled with widespread urban decay.

To revive its historic charm, in 2018, a crucial public-private partnership (PPP) agreement was forged between the Ozu City Council, local Iyo Bank Ltd., and two town development consultants — NOTE Co. Ltd. and Value Management Co. The two movements united under Kita Management Group. Named after the successful "Kitagumi" in the Meiji era, it transformed vacant houses, preserving the city's beauty. Check out these before-and-after photos of Ozu's streets to see the incredible transformation.
Map of Shikoku

The before-and-after photos of an Ozu house transformed by "Kita Management"

Their impact extends beyond mere renovation; they've turned these historical houses into accessible hotels for everyone. Before you worry that these renovations might compromise the authenticity of the old houses for tourists, rest assured. Every effort has been made to preserve the original charm, down to the graffiti in the toilets, believed to have been written during the Edo period!
Hotel outside view

Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town -TUNE House

NIPPONIA hotel in Ozu

This NIPPONIA Hotel in Ozu breaks the mold when it comes to accommodations. I'm constantly struck by how they seamlessly blend comfort with history. When I visited Ozu city this time, I bunked in a centuries-old warehouse – it had all the modern comforts I could wish for, from a spacious hinoki bath on the first floor to comfy beds and a lounge with sofas on the second.

The original structure, dating back nearly 150 years to the late Edo and early Meiji periods, served as warehouses for storing vegetable wax ingredients. Over time, this building fell into disuse, with some in a deteriorated condition, marked by roof damage, leaks, and even the threat of collapse. But check out how great it looks now!

All guest rooms are in buildings with interesting histories, from homes of feudal lords to those of wealthy merchants

The transformation from a traditional Japanese warehouse into this beautiful lodge must have taken an incredible amount of work. And here's the kicker – it's not just one house! There are 26 historic buildings with 31 rooms scattered across town, including gems like the former Kato family residence and warehouses designated as nationally registered tangible cultural properties. If only time and money were no object, I'd definitely make my way through each one! Every room has its distinct personality, seamlessly blending period details with modern comforts. You're faced with the tough decision of selecting between a stylish room in the bustling center of the historic town or the alluring seclusion of a private mansion surrounded by meticulously manicured gardens.
Kristina sitting by the window
Oh, and here's the cherry on top: staying at Nipponia Ozu not only makes reaching the town from Matsuyama a breeze with their free shuttle bus, but it also grants you access to their exclusive guest-only lounge with unlimited drinks. Unlimited sips of Ehime-made mandarin juice, coffee, and a variety of alcoholic beverages like beer and wine.
[BOOK Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town (link to booking)]
japanese Bandai-ji temple view
japanese Bandai-ji temple view
You know what's the best part? NIPPONIA Hotel isn't just a hotel. It's like it's woven into the very fabric of the city. It fits so seamlessly into the atmosphere that you can't quite tell where the hotel ends and the city begins. Throughout my stay, all I did was wander around Ozu, popping into its charming little shops showcasing local crafts, grabbing coffee at cozy cafes – and the best part? Everything is within arm's reach. You don't need any wheels to explore. Step out of the place you're crashing at, pick a direction, and start strolling. Get lost in the streets because every corner holds a new discovery, and it feels like the city is whispering, "Surprise, I've got something for you around every bend.
Nipponia hotel front gate
To make your city exploration a breeze, you'll get your hands on "THE OZU PASSPORT" during check-in – a nifty brochure featuring a city map, a list of shops, and more. Show this passport, and you'll even get some discounts at the places listed inside. It's your all-access pass to not just navigate but also enjoy the best of what Ozu has to offer.
hotel room in traditional japanese style

Get your "THE OZU PASSPORT" during check-in

But let me give you a sneak peek of what Ozu has in store for you! From the tallest castle in Japan to a restaurant serving up the finest Japanese fusion cuisine, there's a bit of everything to tantalize your senses.

What to see in Ozu?

Ozu Castle

Ozu Castle, perched on the Hiji River, stands tall as a town symbol. After the original main tower was demolished in 1888, the castle got a new lease on life in the early 2000s, thanks to local efforts and donations. Using traditional Japanese techniques and aided by old photos and a donated Edo period wooden model, the castle was meticulously reconstructed, showcasing the town's history with authentic methods and materials. By the way, Nipponia offers a unique plan where guests can stay for a night at the castle, a special treat only in Ozu. You can even channel your inner lord, entering the grounds on horseback if you fancy. The experience includes a spirited salute by samurai troops with matchlock rifles, topped off with the chief retainer handing you the symbolic keys to the castle.

Google map link: here
city view from the castle

Garyu Sanso

Garyu Sanso, a registered Important Cultural Property of Japan, is an exquisite complex that transports you to the Meiji era. Constructed by wealthy merchant trader Torajiro Kochi (1853–1909), the villa boasts a thick thatched roof, sliding doors framing river views, and spacious verandas overlooking enchanting gardens. Inspired by Kyoto's seventeenth-century Katsura Imperial Villa, Garyu Sanso's charm lies in its two small tea pavilions, Furo-an and Chishi-an, where you can unwind while observing the river's gentle flow. The meticulously landscaped gardens mirror the distant scenery of mountains, forests, and the Hiji River, creating a serene backdrop. Every Sunday from April to October (excluding August), indulge in matcha tea and Japanese sweets in the picturesque teahouse overlooking the Hiji River.

Google map link: here
japanese style hotel

Omoide Warehouse (Storehouse of Memories)

To immerse yourself in the essence of mid-twentieth-century Japanese life, a visit to The Omoide Soko (Storehouse of Memories) is a must. Inside this museum, you'll encounter reproductions of a drugstore, police box, tobacco shop, and a general store. The building is a treasure trove of surprising retro goods, from enameled signboards to toys and iconic three-wheeled cars. Behind the general store lies a Japanese-style living room that painstakingly recreates the era's way of life—complete with tatami mats, a low table, and a CRT television. As a big fan of the Showa era (1926–89), I could easily lose track of time spending hours in this nostalgic heaven.

Google map link: here

What to see in Ozu?

Le Un

Le Un, the Nipponia's restaurant, invites guests to indulge in the finest produce sourced from local farms. The menu is a harmonious fusion of Japanese and French culinary techniques, highlighting the bounty of ingredients from nearby farms and the Seto Inland Sea. The presentation on Tobe ware plates, featuring beautiful bright blue dyeing, elevates both the taste and visual appeal. Beyond a mere dining spot, Le Un offers an immersive experience where every aspect, from flavor to aesthetics, takes center stage. It was so nice to eat all these fantastic looking food while at the illuminated Ozu castle's through the window! Also if you are a fan of Japanese sake, you would be pleasantly surprised with the menu here! charm while savoring local sake, adding an extra touch of magic to the culinary journey.

Google map link: here

[Find more about their concept here: https://www.vmg.co.jp/en/restaurants/]

Garyu Brewing

The first craft beer brewery in Ozu, where you can not only enjoy craft beers brewed with locally sourced ingredients like kiwi, chestnuts, and strawberries from Ozu but also indulge in light snacks and soft drinks, making it a versatile café. Their product names, such as "Garyu" derived from the historic landmark in Ozu, reflect our commitment to the nationwide promotion of Ozu.

Google map link: here
japanese Bandai-ji temple view
japanese Bandai-ji temple view
japanese Bandai-ji temple view

What to buy in Ozu?

Unagi no Nedoko

Originating in Yame City, Fukuoka, in 2012 as an "Antenna Shop for Conveying Kyushu's Craftsmanship," Unagi no Neboko has been actively engaged in promoting regional culture as a local cultural trading company. Now, based in Ozu City, they aim to explore and act on "Craftsmanship, Regional Culture in Shikoku and the Seto Inland Sea, and Japan." I actually got there the haori (羽織) is a traditional Japanese hip- or thigh-length jacket worn over a kimono. Do you think it suits me?

Google map link: here

Murakami Tei

A renovated traditional Japanese house featuring a unique blend of retail, gallery, and café spaces. At the storefront, you can find locally sourced fresh vegetables and traditional Japanese sweets from nearby farmers. You can also find a dedicated corner for the clothing brand "Sa-Rah," known for crafting garments from natural materials.

Google map link: here

japanese style hotel

Spend the next day
in Uchiko Town

That is just a short list of places you can visit in Ozu! There is so much more!
Ozu is an ideal base for exploring Ehime. If you decide you've seen everything you wanted and bought everything you needed, just jump on the train and take a short 13-minute trip to Uchiko.
Flourishing during the late Edo period to the Meiji era, Uchiko Town was renowned for its production of wood wax. This town boasts many attractions, including the meticulously preserved historical district, the retro-style theater "Uchiko-za," which continues to entertain audiences, and the mystical power spot "Yuge Shrine." Take a leisurely walk through the town, discover popular tourist spots, and find your own favorite hidden gems. The gentle ambiance of Uchiko Town has a magical way of reconnecting you with your true self.
japanese style hotel
japanese style hotel
In conclusion, Ozu and Uchiko offer an authentic and enchanting escape from the well-trodden tourist path. The rich history, picturesque landscapes, and warm hospitality make these hidden gems in Ehime Prefecture a must-visit for those seeking a truly immersive and unique Japanese experience. Plan your journey to Ozu and Uchiko, and let the charm of these lesser-known destinations captivate your heart.

Access to Ozu from Main Japanese Cities

You might worry that picturesque places like Ozu in Japan are hard to reach without a car or knowledge of the language. Fear not! After a flight from Tokyo or any other major city in Japan (you can even book a night bus from Matsuyama to Osaka!), you'll find yourself at the main airport of Ehime - Matsuyama Airport. From there, simply hop on a bus to Ozu (you can find the schedule on Google Maps from the airport to JR Ozu Station). If you book NIPPONIA, free shuttles to and from Matsuyama Airport or Matsuyama Train Station are available.

[BOOK Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town (link to booking)]

Find my reels about Ozu and Nipponia here and here

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