Onfunayado Iroha

It all began when Hayao Miyazaki, the visionary director of Studio Ghibli, arrived in Tomonoura shortly after the release of "Howl's Moving Castle." Miyazaki, burdened by both mental and physical exhaustion, sought solace in this port town for rejuvenation. He spent two and a half months in a "house on a cliff" in Tomonoura, alone, slowly healing his mind while repeating daily routines such as cooking and washing clothes.

During his stay, he often went for walks, made sketches and sent them to his wife every day as a "survival check" so that his family would not worry about him while he continued to live alone.

Following his time in Tomonoura, Miyazaki returned with his team, to craft the masterpiece "Ponyo on the Cliff." Hidden elements from 'Ponyo' are scattered throughout the town of Tomonoura, making it possible to visit the filming locations while recalling scenes from the movie. You can read about this small town in my other article here.

Let's delve further into the narrative of the hotel. Constructed 220 years ago, this once-serving as the dwelling of Manzo Uoya, the building was in a rather dire state when in 2004, the "NPO Machizukuri Kobo," an organization primarily devoted to the restoration of abandoned houses, acquired this property.

This townhouse had been utilized by Sakamoto Ryoma: Japan's favorite hero
(he was a central mover in efforts to overthrow the shogunate 150 years ago) as a meeting venue during the closing days of the Edo period. However, come the early 2000s, for reasons not entirely clear, the house had fallen vacant and was at risk of demolition.
In 2004, the "NPO Tomo Machizukuri Koubou" an organization primarily devoted to the restoration of abandoned houses, acquired this property. During this period, the aged streets of Tomonoura were undergoing dismantling due to deterioration, morphing into parking lots—a situation reminiscent of other parts of Japan.

The NPO managed to purchase the property, but since the house had deteriorated beyond imagination, it took quite a lot of time to find the funds. During the trip to Tomonoura, director Miyazaki visited this house and offered a donation to the NPO to cover the restoration. And that is how the story of Onfunayado Iroha - a small inn on Tomonoura has begun.

He also created numerous sketches to design everything from the exterior to the layout of the rooms. During my stay, I came across his sketchbook (of course it was a copy!) containing his intricately detailed watercolor paintings, accompanied by numerous comments.

Strolling around the premises, one can almost step into the shoes of a character from a Ghibli film. Personally, I was particularly captivated by the intricate design of the stained glass set within the wooden frames.

The inn has a capacity for two groups, creating an ambiance as if you have the entire house to yourself. Each of the renovated guest rooms exudes a unique atmosphere.

During our stay, we occupied two adjacent rooms, featuring waist-high windows, tatami mats, and a tokonoma (alcove), reminiscent of the Edo period and reflecting the charm of traditional Japanese machiya architecture. Abundant sunlight streams in, fostering a nostalgic ambiance. Director Miyazaki named this space "Minna-no-Room," signifying a room for everyone. It can also be partitioned into separate sleeping areas with futons spread out, enabling families and friends to share quality time together.

An additional room was fashioned by transforming a warehouse, evoking the timeless essence of a 220-year-old machiya. This secluded retreat, named "Kakeochimono Room" by Director Miyazaki, offers an intimate space perfectly suited for couples seeking quality time together.

Another standout aspect of this stay was the remarkable dining experience. The meals served here boast a semi-Western original kaiseki style, showcasing locally sourced ingredients from the Setouchi region. The flavors were truly exquisite!

Moreover, if your schedule doesn't permit an overnight stay, you can still savor a lunch option known as "Iroha Gozen" priced at 1,980 yen (inclusive of tax). This meal includes pickled sea bream, dashimaki egg, and other delectable Tomonoura delicacies.

Furthermore, I must highlight the inn's huge communal bath. According to Mr. Miyazaki's advice, 'there is nothing like getting in a big bath and relieving the weariness of the journey for traveling,' so of course, there is a big public bath on the first floor.

As only one group is accommodated at a time, the facility offers an utterly private experience. This arrangement provides a sense of comfort, particularly for those with tattoos — many establishments across Japan still restrict individuals with tattoos from using public baths and onsens. This feature is undoubtedly a significant advantage.

Yes, this place is truly amazing, but the affordability depends on your budget. During our stay on a peak Saturday (August 5th, 2023), when hotel prices across Japan are typically at their highest, the cost was around 30,000 yen per person, inclusive of both dinner and breakfast. The quality of the meals was exceptional — I would willingly pay this price for the food alone, that's how exceptionally delicious it was!

Tomonoura may be a small port town with most shops closing quite early (around 5 pm, to be precise), yet there are numerous compelling reasons to opt for a night's stay. From the enchanting starry nights to seaside hanabi (fireworks) at dusk and serene walks at 6 am, devoid of tourists, the experience is truly unforgettable. I am certain I would stay in Tomonoura again given the chance.