EHIME Prefecture

Exploring Southern Ehime by Train

3-Day slow travel itinerary to Matsuno, Uwajima, Uchiko, and Ozu

If you’ve been following me for a while, you already know how much I love returning to Ehime Prefecture — and this time, I want to share one of my favorite ways to explore it: by train.

For anyone dreaming of a slow travel itinerary through Southern Ehime, this 3-day trip is perfect. You don't need a car, a tour guide, or a strict schedule — just a JR pass and a love for quiet towns, local flavors, and historic streets.

Starting from Matsuyama, you can easily ride the scenic Uwakai Limited Express and Yodo Line, connecting some of Ehime’s most charming destinations: the countryside village of Matsuno, the samurai port town of Uwajima, the craft-rich streets of Uchiko, and the elegant riverside town of Ozu.

Along the way, you’ll stay in unique accommodations like BBQ Castle and Kiya Ryokan, meet locals keeping ancient traditions alive, and enjoy peaceful landscapes that make Ehime one of Japan’s most underrated regions for slow, rural travel.

Here’s exactly how you can recreate this trip — and why you might find yourself falling for Ehime’s quiet magic, just like I did.

DAY 1

Matsuno Town — Slow Life and Samurai Spirits

From Matsuyama Station, I boarded the Uwakai Limited Express, gliding through the green hills until I reached Uwajima Station, where I changed to the Yodo Line. This peaceful local line carried me deeper into the mountains, where I arrived at Matsumaru Station in Matsuno Town — the smallest town in Ehime Prefecture.

Despite its size, Matsuno offers an unforgettable experience with its unique accommodation, BBQ Castle (site link). More than just a place to sleep, it’s a mix of local flavors and creativity. Dinner is cooked over an open fire, featuring fresh ingredients from nearby farms and forests. The standout dish? A slow-roasted venison leg — tender, juicy, and hands down the best gibier I’ve ever eaten in Japan.

In the morning, breakfast became an experience in itself. We gathered around the fire stove to shape onigiri (rice balls) by hand, chilled our fingers in cold water to avoid burning ourselves. Somehow, that simple meal of rice and salt tasted better than anything I’d had in ages!

And if that wasn’t enough, the next part of the experience took me even further back in time. Dressed in a traditional hakama, the owner gave me a lesson in katana (sword) handling. Holding the sword, practicing the movements, and standing under the wide sky of rural Ehime — I felt like a time traveler stepping into a samurai story.

Practicing katana in traditional japanese clothes

If you’re planning a visit, make sure to check out the nearby Poppo Onsen, a cozy bathhouse heated with firewood, and stop by the historic Nobushi sake brewery for a taste of locally brewed nihonshu.

Day 2

Black Pilgrimage in Uwajima and Kushima Island

Back on the Yodo Line, the next stop was Uwajima, a coastal city rich with samurai heritage and folklore.

Uwajima, tucked away in the quiet corner of Ehime Prefecture, is the kind of place that feels like time has slowed down just for you. With its small-town atmosphere, it’s easy to feel at peace here. To really feel the town’s rhythm, you need to stay for a night — wander through the historic streets in the golden evening light and taste the fresh local seafood that never made it far from the shore.

In Uwajima, I stayed at Kiya Ryokan.

Housed in a beautifully restored historic building, Kiya Ryokan is an exclusive, private accommodation — available only for one group at a time, from 2 to 10 people. Once you check in, the entire property becomes yours to explore, like having your secret residence hidden in the heart of Uwajima.

What I loved most was the freedom to treat the space as my own. I spent time reading in the cozy living area, soaking in the atmosphere as if I had been transported back 100 years, but with the comfort of modern touches woven in.

That night, I also joined the Black Pilgrimage — a night tour led by Greb Bartholomeus that explores Uwajima’s abandoned shrines and haunted legends (available in English). With a small pouch of salt for protection, we walked through forgotten altars, listening to eerie stories of samurai and spirits. It was equal parts history, mystery, and just the right amount of fear!

Before leaving Uwajima the next day, I took a short bus ride to Kushima Island, a quiet getaway just 30 minutes from Uwajima Station. Renting a bike here is the best way to explore the coastline, meet locals reviving the island through sustainable projects.

I also paused for lunch at Shima no Omoide Piano, where the home-cooked meal felt like it came straight from a neighbor’s kitchen. (And yes, the retro ice cream I had at the end is worth the trip alone!)

Day 3

Traditional Craftsmanship in Uchiko and Ozu

Uchiko: Japanese candles and washi paper

Continuing north, I traveled by train to Uchiko, a small town known for its legacy of washi paper and candle-making.

One of my favorite stops here was Ōmori Warōsoku (大森和蝋燭屋), a candle workshop that has been operating for over six generations, quietly preserving the rare craft of handmade Japanese candles (warosoku). The father-and-son duo, Taro and Ryotaro, are among the very few remaining craftsmen in Japan still using natural wax from haze nuts, following techniques passed down since the Edo period (1603−1868).

You can watch through the glass as they focus deeply on their craft, layering the wax by hand, each movement smooth and meditative. The finished candles burn with a gentle, steady flame, and knowing the centuries of tradition behind them makes bringing one home feel like carrying a small piece of Uchiko’s history with you.

But Uchiko’s story of craftsmanship doesn’t stop there.

A short taxi ride from Uchiko Station brings you to Tenjin Papermaking Factory (天神産紙工場), where the clear, cool waters of the Odagawa River have been used for generations to make washi paper.

Whether you’re watching the papermaking process or trying it yourself, this is a rare opportunity to connect directly with a craft that’s been passed down through generations. Workshops (by reservation — call 0893−44−2002) let you try your hand at papermaking and gilding, with friendly, knowledgeable staff guiding you step by step.

Next door, the Ōzu Washi Hall is a must-visit for thoughtful souvenirs, with handmade notebooks, calligraphy paper, and other small goods crafted from the very washi made on-site. If you’re someone who loves bringing home meaningful, locally made items, this is the place.

Ozu: stunning Japanese architecture

Just 15 minutes by train from Uchiko, Ozu feels like stepping into a picture book. While Uchiko is all about artisan elegance, Ozu is a former castle town with wide river views, lovingly preserved streets, and an atmosphere that invites you to slow down and stay awhile. If you’re planning your first visit to Ozu, I’ve written another travel guide here.

For this visit, I stayed at Maroyashiki, a historic inn with a personality all its own. The owner takes great pride in creating a space that feels like home, and that warmth extends to his friendly dog, Maro, who might just greet you at the door when you arrive.

The next morning, I made my way to one of Ozu’s hidden treasures — Bansensou Villa (盤泉荘).

Built in 1926 by the wealthy Matsui brothers, who made their fortune through trade in the Philippines, Bansensou is a rare example of international influence blended with traditional Japanese architecture. The house sits high on a hill, looking out over the Hiji River, with sweeping views that are as much a part of the design as the wooden beams and shoji screens inside.

Imported Southeast Asian woods, intricate balconies (which were unusual in Japan at the time), and decorative touches like a custom "K.M." crest on the roof tiles all speak to the worldly experience of its builders. And yet, it still feels deeply local — rooted in the landscape and the quiet rhythm of Ozu.

Before taking a train back to Matsuyama, I stopped by a local bakery for breakfast — simple, quiet moments that felt like the perfect way to close this part of the trip.

Heading Back to Matsuyama

After enjoying the best of both towns, it was time to return to the city. From Ozu Station, it’s an easy and direct ride back to Matsuyama — about 40 minutes on the Uwakai Limited Express. Whether you’re catching a flight or just spending a final evening in town, you’ll be back without any complicated transfers.

Why You Should Take This 3-Day Train Trip Through Southern Ehime

After spending a few slow, beautiful days traveling from Matsuyama to Matsuno, Uwajima, Uchiko, and Ozu, I was reminded why Ehime Prefecture is one of the best places in Japan for peaceful, local travel.

So if you’ve been searching for a Japan itinerary that’s relaxing, easy to follow, and filled with meaningful local encounters, I can’t recommend this Southern Ehime train journey enough.

And who knows? Maybe you’ll find yourself coming back here every few months, too.

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