Ehime Prefecture

Best Day Trips from Okayama

Discover Tsuyama’s Historic Streets, Castle Ruins, and Coffee Culture

Majority of travellers visiting Okayama Prefecture head straight for places like Kurashiki, Korakuen Garden, or Naoshima. Fair enough. But it also means towns like Tsuyama remain strangely absent from most English-language itineraries, which, honestly, is probably part of why it still feels so quiet.

About an hour north of Okayama City, Tsuyama offers a very different side of the prefecture. Once an important castle town during the Edo period, it grew into a center of commerce, scholarship, and craftsmanship. Today, you can wander through preserved merchant streets, learn about traditional Sakushu Kasuri weaving, and stop for coffee inside former public bathhouses and elegant Western-style buildings.

If you’re looking for unique things to do in Okayama Prefecture, this town is one of the most rewarding detours in the region.

Why Tsuyama Is One of the Best Day Trips from Okayama

I’ll go into each place in more detail below, but if you're still wondering whether Tsuyama is worth visiting, here’s what makes it stand out.

In Tsuyama, you’ll find:

Historic merchant streets preserved from the Edo period, especially in the Joto district
The remains of Tsuyama Castle, once one of the most impressive fortresses in western Japan
Unusually rich traces of Taisho-era Western-style architecture, rooted in its history of producing Rangaku (Dutch learning) scholars
Traditional crafts such as Sakushu Kasuri weaving
A surprisingly strong coffee culture inside historic buildings, including former public bathhouses and early modern cafes

One practical tip: rent a bicycle near Tsuyama Station, at the Tsuyamaeki Information Centre. The town is walkable, but cycling makes it much easier to move between districts. Electric bikes are available for day trips, while regular bicycles can be rented if you’re staying longer.

How to Get to Tsuyama from Okayama

Tsuyama lies about 90 minutes north of Okayama City by train. The simplest route is the JR Tsuyama Line from Okayama Station. There are also limited express trains that can get you there in about one hour, which makes Tsuyama a very manageable day trip from Okayama.

Hands holding photograph of flood-damaged sake tanks and interior after disaster

A lot of people pass through Okayama on their way to Kurashiki, Naoshima, or the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, but heading north feels like entering a different prefecture altogether: rural valleys, historical towns, and places where local traditions are still very visible.

Three sake brewers standing inside traditional brewery facility in Hijikawa Valley Japan

This part of Okayama has also started attracting more attention through the Forest Festival of the Arts Okayama, an international art event held across northern Okayama, including Tsuyama. The festival is scheduled to return in 2027.

Tsuyama also works well as a stopover if you’re continuing on toward Tottori Prefecture and the Sea of Japan coast.

Tsuyama: A Haven for Architecture Lovers

At first glance, Tsuyama feels like a provincial town in northern Okayama. But it is much deeper than it first appears: a former castle town, a merchant center, and later a place influenced by Western learning and early modern architecture. For anyone interested in historic buildings, Tsuyama offers an unusually satisfying mix of preserved merchant streets, castle ruins, Western-style public buildings, and older structures that have been carefully given new life.

Joto Preservation District: Tsuyama’s Preserved Edo-Period Merchant Streets

One of the clearest reasons to visit Tsuyama is Joto Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings (城東重要伝統的建造物群保存地区), where rows of Edo-period merchant houses still line the streets of this former castle town.

Finished ukiyo-e print of The Great Wave off Kanagawa held by participants at workshop

The district developed along the Izumo Kaido, a historical road that once linked the region with Izumo in present-day Shimane Prefecture. Merchants traveling along this route helped turn Tsuyama into a prosperous commercial town.

Today, more than 60 percent of the buildings along the main street are traditional structures dating from the Edo period to the early 20th century, which gives the district a remarkable sense of continuity.

By walking (or cycling, in my case) through Joto, you can also get a sense of how carefully castle towns were planned. The streets include masugata (枡形), key-shaped turns designed to slow attackers and make it harder to approach the castle directly.

Another feature I loved was the continuous line of roof eaves stretching along the street. Merchant houses were traditionally built close to the roadside drainage channel, with neighboring buildings aligning their eaves at the same height.

Many of these old buildings have now been restored and repurposed into cafes, small shops, and traditional inns (I will talk about those a bit later!).

Brewery owner inside restored sake brewery holding image of past flood destruction

Flood level sign marking water height from 2018 heavy rain disaster in Japan

Sake brewery owner holding photo of flood damage inside Yoro Shuzo in Ehime Japan

As you walk through the neighborhood, you’ll also notice distinctive architectural details typical of Edo-period townhouses, including namako-kabe plaster walls, that helped protect buildings from fire and moisture, and mushikomado windows, small plaster-framed openings on upper floors that let in light and air while preserving privacy.

Tsuyama Castle and Kakuzan Park: One of Japan’s Great Cherry Blossom Sites

The streets of Joto were originally laid out as part of the castle town surrounding Tsuyama Castle, which rises on a hill just a short distance away. Built in the early 17th century by the feudal lord Mori Tadamasa, the castle became the political and military center of the region.

Although the main buildings no longer survive, the former castle grounds are now known as Kakuzan Park (鶴山公園), one of the best-known cherry blossom spots in the Chugoku region. In spring, around 1,000 cherry trees bloom across the hill, turning the stone terraces pink.

Even outside sakura season, the castle ruins are worth visiting for the views over town and for the way they help you understand how Tsuyama was laid out below.

A Town of Learning: Tsuyama and Western Studies

Beyond its castle and merchant streets, Tsuyama also played an important role in Japan’s intellectual history. During the Edo period (1603−1868), when the country limited most contact with the outside world, scholars studied Western science and medicine through the Netherlands. This body of knowledge became known as Rangaku, or Dutch learning.

Tsuyama produced several notable figures connected to this movement, the best known being Mitsukuri Genpo (1799−1863). Born in Tsuyama, he later became a major translator of Western scientific texts and helped introduce European medicine and scientific knowledge to Japan in the late Edo period. His work would later influence the spread of modern science during the Meiji era (1868−1912).

Bunraku puppet performance with masked puppeteers manipulating traditional Japanese doll on stage

If you want to understand how a quiet town like Tsuyama came to produce so many influential figures in Japan’s intellectual history, the Tsuyama Archives of Western Learning (津山洋学資料館) is well worth a visit.

The origins of Otani Bunraku date back to 1853, when a travelling troupe from Awaji Island performed in Otani village. When the troupe later disbanded, several performers remained and began teaching local residents how to operate the puppets. Over time, the tradition was passed down through generations and became the community theatre known today as Otani Bunraku.

Walking around Tsuyama, you start to notice buildings shaped by European design from the Meiji and Taisho periods, when Western ideas and aesthetics were spreading more widely through Japan.

One of the examples is PORT ART & DESIGN TSUYAMA, housed inside the former Senoo Bank Haida Branch, an early 20th-century bank building that has been carefully restored and given a new life as a creative space. Today, you can step inside to see rotating exhibitions by local artists.

A short cycle away, Josai Romance Hall offers another great sample of Tsuyama’s Western-influenced architecture. Built in the Taisho era, it now functions as both a cafe and a cultural space.

Visitor viewing ukiyo-e woodblock prints and carving tools at Utamaro-kan Museum in Japan

Traditional Japanese woodblock printing plate with ukiyo-e design in progress at Utamaro-kan

If you’re interested in regional craft Sakushu Folkcraft Museum (作州民芸館) is also worth stopping by. The building was once a bank, and you can still feel that in its proportions, materials, and interior details. Today it houses exhibits on local crafts, a small souvenir shop, and a place to stop for lunch.

Together, these places reveal Tsuyama — a town where Edo-period merchant architecture, Taisho-era Western buildings, and repurposed banks all exist within the same walkable area. For architecture lovers, it’s a far richer town than it first appears.

Traditional Crafts of Tsuyama: Sakushu Kasuri Weaving

Tsuyama is also home to one of northern Okayama’s traditional textile crafts: Sakushu Kasuri weaving. This indigo-dyed cotton fabric is known for its softly blurred patterns, created by tying, dyeing, and weaving the threads to form motifs. Many of these designs draw on auspicious symbols in Japan, such as cranes, turtles, pine trees, and camellia flowers.

Like many regional crafts in Japan, Sakushu Kasuri came close to disappearing in the late 20th century. After the last master weavers, Hiroshi and Shigeko Sugihara, passed away, the craft faced the real possibility of being lost entirely.

In 1997, local artisans and supporters formed the Sakushu Kasuri Preservation Society to bring the tradition back into everyday life. Through workshops, exhibitions, and training programs at the Sakushu Kasuri Craft Center, they created ways for both visitors and younger generations to experience it firsthand.

During my visit, I tried cotton ginning and weaving the textile myself. Even at the earliest stages, it was clear how much effort the process requires. If you’re short on time, you can also join a shorter workshop and make a small hair accessory using Sakushu Kasuri fabric.

Japanese set meal with tonkatsu rice bowl, udon soup and side dishes at Kanogawaso inn

One of the defining techniques of Sakushu Kasuri is sakizome (先染め), or pre-dyed yarn. Instead of dyeing the cloth after weaving, the threads are dyed in advance, with certain sections tightly bound so the dye cannot penetrate them. When woven together, the dyed and undyed sections create the softly blurred kasuri effect.

Trying the process also reminded me of another textile tradition I experienced in Hyogo Prefecture, where I wrote about Banshu-ori textiles. Different as they are, both crafts reveal how much labor can hide behind fabrics that look quiet and simple.

Where to Stay in Hijikawa Valley

For those who want to spend more time in the valley, there are several places to stay that are both surprisingly affordable and high quality.

During this visit, we stayed at Kanogawaso (鹿野川荘) and also stopped by the retro Oyabu Onsen (小薮温泉). Unfortunately, the onsen itself was closed during our visit, as Tuesdays are their regular day off. Still, we were able to admire the beautiful three-story wooden main building, constructed in the mid-Taisho period (early 20th century).

Surrounded by wooden verandas with traditional railings, the building feels almost frozen in time. Large wooden structures of this age are increasingly rare in Japan, and the building was designated a Registered Tangible Cultural Property in 2000.

Tucked into the mountains near the Hijikawa River, Kanogawaso offers a peaceful stay surrounded by forested hills and access to its own hot spring baths. The inn sits near Kanogawa Dam, built to help control flooding along the river, a reminder of how closely life in this valley has always been connected to the Hijikawa River.

During our stay we chatted with a local grandmother who visits the onsen every day. She enthusiastically told us how delicious the food at the inn was. Later that evening, we discovered she had not exaggerated at all!

Dinner highlighted ingredients from the surrounding countryside, seasonal vegetables, river fish, and dishes paired with sake brewed just a few hours earlier at Yoro Shuzo, the brewery we had visited earlier that day.

If you are exploring the area during the day, Kanogawaso is also open for lunch, making it a convenient stop even if you’re not staying overnight.

Ukiyo-e Woodblock Printing at Utamaro-kan Museum

After breakfast, we visited our final destination in the Hijikawa Valley near Ozu in Ehime Prefecture — a small cultural facility called Kaze no Hakubutsukan Utamaro-kan, a museum dedicated to the world of ukiyo-e woodblock prints.

Ukiyo-e, the iconic woodblock prints of Japan’s Edo period, are among the most internationally recognized forms of Japanese art. Artists such as Hokusai and Utamaro influenced painters in Europe and helped shape artistic movements such as Impressionism.

Edo-period ukiyo-e painting depicting indoor scene with figures and ocean view

Moon at Shinagawa (also known as Moonlight Revelry at Dozo Sagami)
by Kitagawa Utamaro (1753-1806)

The museum was established after original woodblocks connected to the ukiyo-e master Kitagawa Utamaro (1753–1806) were discovered in a local storehouse. No one knows exactly how they ended up in this rural valley.

In many places, discoveries like this might simply be transferred to large museums in major cities. But in the Hijikawa Valley, the community made a different decision. Instead of sending the woodblocks away, they chose to preserve them locally and share their history with visitors.

One of the highlights of visiting Utamaro-kan museum is the chance to try traditional ukiyo-e woodblock printing (摺り体験) yourself.

The process is far more intricate than it might first appear. A single ukiyo-e print is not created by just one artist. Traditionally, four specialists worked together: the artist who designed the image, the carver who cut the design into wooden blocks, the printer who applied pigments and pressed the paper, and the publisher who coordinated the entire production.

For multicolored prints, a separate woodblock must be carved for each color, sometimes ten or more blocks for a single image. Each sheet of paper must then be aligned perfectly with every block during printing. Even the smallest shift can ruin the entire print.

After trying the printing process myself, I gained a completely new appreciation for the patience and craftsmanship behind what might otherwise look like a simple image.

FAQ: Visiting Hijikawa Valley

Where is Hijikawa Valley located?

Hijikawa Valley is located in Ozu City in Ehime Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku in western Japan. The valley sits about 30 minutes from Ozu Castle and follows the course of the Hijikawa River.

How do you get to Hijikawa Valley?

Most visitors reach Hijikawa Valley via Ozu, which can be accessed from Matsuyama in about one hour by train or car. From Ozu, the valley is approximately 30 minutes by car.

What can you do in Hijikawa Valley?

You can explore traditional sake breweries, historic onsen inns, wagashi shops, and ukiyo-e woodblock printing experiences at Utamaro-kan Museum.

Is Hijikawa Valley worth visiting?

Yes. Hijikawa Valley offers a quieter side of Ehime travel, with authentic cultural traditions, rural landscapes, and hands-on craft experiences that are rarely seen in major tourist destinations.

When Is the Best Time to Visit Hijikawa Valley?

The Hijikawa Valley can be visited year-round, but each season offers a slightly different experience. Spring and autumn are especially beautiful, when the surrounding mountains are covered in fresh greenery or vibrant fall foliage. Winter brings a quieter atmosphere, while summer highlights the valley’s rivers and lush countryside.

Other Places to Visit Near Ozu in Ehime

While many travelers visit Ehime for destinations such as Matsuyama Castle, Dogo Onsen, or the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, the countryside around Ozu offers a quieter side of the region.

Person walking a dog through traditional wooden temple gate surrounded by forest in Ozu, Ehime, Japan

The Hijikawa Valley is one of the most fascinating places to explore in southern Ehime. Here, visitors can experience sake brewing, Bunraku puppet theatre, traditional wagashi, and hands-on ukiyo-e woodblock printing.

Other nearby destinations worth exploring include:

Uchiko

A beautifully preserved town known for its historic merchant houses and traditional Japanese wax production.

Matsuno

A rural area famous for its forests, cycling routes, and local food culture.

Uwajima

A peaceful town with a long samurai history and one of Shikoku’s best-preserved historic castles.

These destinations can easily be explored together with Ozu as part of a multi-day trip through southern Ehime Prefecture. You can also read my guide to Ozu Castle Town and the NIPPONIA Ozu Castle Town project, as well as a 3-day train journey through southern Ehime.

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