Fukushima prefecture

Beginner’s Guide to Oze National Park:

Route, access, booking a mountain lodge, and responsible travel tips for Japan’s wetlands.

Words by Kristina Minami | Photography by Benjamin Beech

A Note About the Photography

I worked on this article together with photographer Ben Beech. While I wrote about our journey and the people we met, Ben captured the experience with his thoughtful photography.

Oze National Park has always felt like a place made for dreamers. Wooden boardwalks cross misty wetlands, wildflowers bloom along the trails, and the cool highland air is a world away from Japan’s busy cities.

If you’re new to Oze, let me introduce you: it’s one of Japan’s most famous national parks for hiking, and Hinoemata Village, my base for this adventure, is the main gateway on the Fukushima side. After a few days in Hinoemata, soaking in hot springs and trying local mountain food, I finally put on my boots and set out to hike some of Oze National Park’s most beautiful trails.

In this beginner’s guide, I’ll share the step-by-step route from Hinoemata Village and Oze Miike to Numayama Pass and Lake Ozenuma, show you how to book a mountain lodge, and offer practical tips for traveling responsibly in these wetlands. If you want real advice and a deeper look at village life in Hinoemata, you’re in the right place, be sure to check out Part 1 of my guide as well.

Let’s start our journey on the boardwalk together!

Discover Oze National Park: Scenery, Seasons, and Highlights

Oze captures your imagination even before you visit. I had seen photos and heard stories for years, but nothing matched the feeling of seeing the famous boardwalks crossing the wetlands with mountains in the background.

Every season in Oze has something special. In spring, white mizubasho (Asian skunk cabbage) covers the marshes. In summer, yellow daylilies fill the fields. In autumn, the grasses and forests turn gold and red. The fresh air and open spaces truly make you feel far from daily life. Now I understand why so many people love Oze.

Guguan Hot Spring sign in the mountains of Taichung

Suspension bridge over the Dajia River in Guguan, Taiwan

Bird in the forest near Guguan Hot Spring, Taiwan

So how can you experience Oze for yourself, and what’s the best route if it’s your first time? Here’s the path we followed and what you can expect.

Oze National Park Hiking Route Overview for Beginners

For my first hike in Oze, we picked a route that’s great for beginners who are fairly fit. It’s challenging enough to feel rewarding, but not too hard.

Abandoned UFO house in Wanli UFO Village, Taiwan

Here’s the plan:

Hinoemata Village → Oze Miike → Numayama Pass → Lake Ozenuma → Overnight at a mountain lodge → Return to Hinoemata Village

Even though this route is considered beginner-friendly, it’s still a real mountain hike. On a scale from 1 to 5, where 1 is an easy city walk and 5 is a tough alpine trek, I’d rate this about a 2.5. You’ll climb about 350 meters between Numayama Pass and Lake Ozenuma, with a steady mix of uphill and downhill sections.

If you've hiked Mt. Takao near Tokyo, this route is about the same distance, but the ground is rougher and the weather can change quickly. The trails are clearly marked, but some parts can be wet, muddy, or slippery, especially after rain. Most of the hike is on forest paths and wooden boardwalks.

Pro Tips:

Weather in the highlands changes quickly, so always bring rain gear and warm clothes.
The mountain is open for climbing from late May to late October. June, July, and September are the best times for hiking.
Early summer has wildflowers and fresh greenery, while autumn is known for colorful leaves and clear air. By October, you might even see the first snow.
If you have trouble with steep or uneven ground, this hike might not be suitable. Start early, go at your own pace, and always pay attention to trail conditions.

Other Oze hiking experiences

If you want more adventure, Oze has many other options. Experienced hikers can climb Hiuchigatake (燧ケ岳), the highest peak in Tohoku, or try a classic multi-day hike from Gunma Prefecture. Hinoemata also offers "workation" stays for remote work, and you can join guided hikes if you want local knowledge.

How to Get to Oze National Park from Tokyo via Hinoemata

You can reach Oze from several prefectures, but going through Hinoemata Village lets you experience real mountain village life. That’s the route I chose.

As you leave Tokyo, the scenery gradually changes as you get closer to the mountains. With every kilometer, the excitement grows, because you know you’re not just visiting a national park — you’re about to enter one of Japan's most beautiful wild areas.

The map is an illustration intended for a travel infographic, rather than a detailed navigation map.
Please check Google Maps to determine the exact route you should take.

Step 1:
Start your journey by taking the shinkansen from Tokyo to Nasushiobara Station in Tochigi Prefecture.
You can also drive from Tokyo to Hinoemata, which takes about 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic and stops. Driving gives you more flexibility with your schedule.

Step 2:
From Nasushiobara, you can rent a car for the last two-hour drive to Hinoemata. The mountain roads are quiet and scenic, winding through forests and small villages.

Step 3:
When you reach Hinoemata, drive or take a local bus to Oze Miike. Private cars must stop here to help protect Oze’s delicate environment. From Miike, take the shuttle bus to Numayama Pass, which is the main trailhead for the Ozenuma area.

Map showing how to get to Guguan Hot Spring from Taichung

If you use public transportation, the easiest way is to take a limited express train from Asakusa Station in Tokyo to Aizu-Tajima Station on the Tobu Railway (about 3 hours). From Aizu-Tajima, transfer to the local Aizu Bus to reach Hinoemata Village.

Hinoemata Village and Its Connection to Oze National Park

Before visiting Oze National Park, I spent some time in Hinoemata Village, a small mountain community that serves as one of the main gateways into the park.

While I was there, I learned about the Hirano family, who, over a century ago, were among the first to guide travelers through the Oze mountains and help develop the area for visitors.

In 1889, Hirano Chōzō from Hinoemata entered the area around Mount Hiuchigatake, and in 1910, he built a hut that would become "Chōzō-goya", one of the oldest mountain huts in Japan. He subsequently became known not only as the proprietor of the hut but also as a dedicated advocate for the conservation of Oze’s natural environment.

When plans for the Ozehara Dam appeared in the late 1910s, Chozo was among those who spoke out against it. In 1923, he traveled to Tokyo and petitioned the government to reconsider the dam and reservoir projects at Ozenuma and Ozegahara.

His winters in the mountains were harsh and lonely, with deep snow and little food, but Chozo endured it all to help preserve Oze’s nature for future generations. As he once wrote:

この地をして永遠に静寂を失わしむることなくして独想ー思索ー瞑想する地たらしめよ。青年よ赤き心よ風光明媚なるこの湖畔に大自然の下に集りてこの大自然の美を享受せよ。

"Let this place never lose its silence, so that it continues to be a place for solitary thought, contemplation, and meditation. Young people with passionate hearts, gather on this beautiful lakeshore under the great nature and enjoy the beauty of nature."

Locals like the Hirano family played an important role in Oze’s conservation history, working with others to resist development (especially dam construction and road building) and to support visitor rules that help keep the wetlands clean. Many of the rules and customs now in place were inspired by the dedication of people who loved and protected Oze long before it became a national park.

Getting from Hinoemata to Oze Miike and Numayama Pass

If you’re wondering how to get to Oze National Park from Hinoemata, here’s exactly how my travel went, and how you can do it too, even without a car.

Our path for the next 2 days was pretty simple but unforgettable: Hinoemata Village → Oze Miike → Numayama Pass → Lake Ozenuma → Stay overnight at a lodge near Lake Ozenuma → Return to Hinoemata Village the next day. This is considered a typical course for beginners.

Staying at a local minshuku or ryokan in Hinoemata Village is a great way to experience the culture and is also the most convenient base for visiting Oze. Most lodgings are accustomed to accommodating hikers and can offer advice on your mountain trip.

Colorful suspension bridge in Guguan, Taiwan

At the Oze Miike, you can buy your shuttle bus ticket when you arrive, no need to book ahead. The shuttle bus to Numayama Pass is one of the main ways to enter Oze National Park from the Fukushima side, as private vehicles are not allowed beyond the parking area in order to protect the wetlands.

Before you start walking on the boardwalks, it’s important to know some key rules and tips that make Oze National Park special and help keep it beautiful for everyone.

Shinmoto-san explaining the former poison gas factory and wartime sites on a map of Okunoshima, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan

Oze National Park Rules & Etiquette: What Every Visitor Should Know

Before stepping off the boardwalk, remember: one footprint can destroy 100 years of nature’s work

Boardwalks:

Stay on the boardwalks and official trails. Even a single step off can damage rare plants and fragile wetlands that take years to recover.

100-yen coins for toilets:

Mountain public toilets are expensive and labor-intensive to maintain. Bring plenty of 100-yen coins to pay the cooperation fee at trailheads and mountain lodges. Your small contribution directly supports cleaning, sewage treatment, and the protection of Oze’s pristine environment.

Carry out all rubbish:

There are no municipal waste systems in the mountains. Take everything you bring in back out with you.

100-yen coins for toilets:

Stay on the boardwalks and official trails. Even a single step off can damage rare plants and fragile wetlands that take years to recover.

Hiking from Numayama Pass to Lake Ozenuma: What to Expect

Numayama Pass is the official trailhead for the Ozenuma area of Oze National Park. Here, you’ll find a rest area and clean mountain toilets. Pro tip: As mentioned earlier, bring plenty of 100-yen coins for the toilet donation boxes. Your contribution helps keep Oze clean and beautiful for everyone.

From the Numayama Pass trailhead, the hiking adventure begins along a forested mountain path.

As you walk, the trail gradually opens up. Trees give way to views of the wetlands, and soon you find yourself walking onto the wooden boardwalks that protect the delicate marsh below.

In-room hot spring bath at HOSHINOYA Guguan in central Taiwan

Misty mountain forest scenery near Guguan Hot Spring in Taiwan

Guest room at HOSHINOYA Guguan overlooking the mountains of Taiwan

The air is full of wildflowers and moist soil, and if you pause, you’ll hear chirping and the light whisper of the breeze through the grass. These boardwalks are designed to protect the sensitive wetlands and connect you directly to Lake Ozenuma, one of the most scenic spots in Oze National Park.

Depending on the season, the landscape changes dramatically: expect wildflowers and fresh greenery in late spring, lush growth and cool breezes in summer, or bright autumn colors and foggy mornings in fall.

I was lucky enough to hike with Mai-san, a local Oze interpreter who’s been fascinated by this place since she was a schoolgirl.

As we walked, she not only pointed out wildflowers and birds, but also explained how the park’s rules have changed as people became more aware of protecting nature.

What began as simple suggestions are now important rules needed for Oze’s survival. For example, the 100-yen donation at the mountain toilets is not only about paying expenses—it's a way for every visitor to help care for the land. Keeping these facilities clean and eco-friendly is a big challenge, and the rules help make sure Oze stays beautiful for everyone.

Hearing Mai-san's stories made me realize that every minor act, from dropping a coin in the box to respecting the rules, is part of a bigger effort to keep this unique place alive and thriving.

Staying Overnight at a Mountain Lodge near Lake Ozenuma

After stopping along the trail to enjoy the lunch prepared by our minshuku host, we finally arrived at Ozenuma Pond. While many people visit Oze as a day trip, staying overnight here lets you experience moments that day hikers often miss, like the quiet of the evening and the misty calm of early morning.

According to Fukushima Prefecture’s official guide, Lake Ozenuma sits at 1,660 meters above sea level and is the largest high-altitude lake in Japan. Right by the lake, you’ll find a visitor center and a few cozy mountain lodges (where we stayed for the night).

The lodge itself looked almost timeless, built of weathered wood, with simple rooms and large windows framing the mountains.

Mountain lodges here are all about simplicity and caring for nature. You bring your own essentials, respect quiet hours (lights out is around 9 p.m.), and follow rules such as taking your trash with you. Most lodges do not allow soap or shampoo in the baths to protect the environment, so always confirm with your accommodation before use. Reservations are essential, since space is limited to help protect the environment.

To book a lodge, you can usually use the official Oze National Park lodging websites or sometimes call by phone.

It’s best to book early, especially during busy hiking seasons. If you plan to stay on weekends or public holidays between mid-June and July, or between mid-September and mid-October, it is best to make your reservation two to three months in advance. For quieter months or weekdays outside peak season, booking 3 to 4 weeks ahead is usually enough, but booking earlier is always safer to make sure you get a room.

At dinner, we met in a warm dining room with other hikers and shared a hearty meal of rice, main dish, pickles, and hot miso soup.

There’s something about simple food at the end of a long day on the trail that just tastes amazing. And if you forget any food or snacks, the lodge usually has a small selection of instant noodles, drinks, and sometimes even wine or beer available for purchase.

Since many hikers at mountain huts set out early the next morning, most huts have a designated lights-out time to ensure everyone can rest quietly. Lights went out at 9pm, and I fell asleep to the sound of wind in the trees. Honestly, I can’t remember the last time I went to bed so early.

When morning came (everyone seemed to be up by 4 a.m.), we were greeted by rain.

The lake was wrapped in mist, the boardwalks glistened with dew, and everything was so peaceful, completely removed from everyday life. This was when I realized how special it is to wake up in the heart of Oze, well before the day-trippers even arrive.

Returning to Hinoemata Village after Your Oze Hike

Heading back to Hinoemata after hours on the trail felt like slowly coming back to earth. The boardwalks and wetlands melted behind us, and the shuttle bus curved its way down through the forest until the first village houses and inns came into view.

After a long hike, there’s really nothing better than soaking your tired legs in one of Hinoemata’s local hot springs, like Hiuchi no Yu, Koma no Yu, or Alza Oze no Sato. For me, getting into the hot water wasn't merely relaxing. It also felt like moving from the adventure of the mountains back to everyday life in the village.

Ending the trip this way made me appreciate Hinoemata even more.

Oze National Park Practical Information: Hiking Times and Packing List

What to Pack for Oze National Park (Packing List)

Waterproof hiking boots
Rain jacket & pants (weather changes fast)
Warm layers (even in summer, mornings/evenings are chilly)
Sun hat & sunscreen
Refillable water bottle (no vending machines on the trail)
Snacks/energy bars
100-yen coins (for toilets)
Small towel/handkerchief
Personal toiletries (most lodges do not allow soap or shampoo in the baths, so always check the policy at your accommodation). Permitted items usually include a toothbrush, toothpaste (if allowed—policies vary), unscented deodorant, wet wipes, comb or brush, and personal medications. Try to pack fragrance-free or environmentally friendly products, and avoid bringing unnecessary toiletries to protect the environment.
Trash bag (carry out all rubbish)
Camera or smartphone for photos
Map or downloaded offline map

Oze National Park Hiking Times and Distances (Hinoemata to Ozenuma)

Hinoemata Village → Oze Miike: 20–30 min by car/shuttle
Oze Miike → Numayama Pass (by shuttle bus): ~20 min
Numayama Pass → Lake Ozenuma (on foot): ~1–1.5 hours (about 6 km, with gentle elevation gain)
Lake Ozenuma → Mountain lodge: 5–10 min walk

Oze National Park FAQ: Answers for First-Time Visitors

My Final Thoughts

After just two days, my only real regret was how quickly it all ended. The beauty of Oze is honestly a little hypnotic. I can’t believe that was my last time there, and really, I hope it isn’t. For me, this trip felt as a beginning instead of an end. I’m already thinking of coming back to try new trails and see Oze in a different season.

If you’re curious about the heart of Hinoemata or want to get a deeper feel for village life, don’t miss Part 1 of my guide, it’s full of stories, local food, and culture.

Got questions about planning your own Oze adventure? Drop them in the comments, or offer your own experiences and tips. I’d love to hear what you think!

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