Hiroshima prefecture

It all began when Hayao Miyazaki, the visionary director of Studio Ghibli, arrived in Tomonoura shortly after the release of "Howl's Moving Castle." He spent two and a half months in a "house on a cliff" in Tomonoura, alone, slowly healing his mind while repeating daily routines such as cooking and washing clothes.

Shortly after that Miyazaki's return, accompanied by his team, marked the crafting of the beloved masterpiece, "Ponyo on the Cliff." Delightfully, traces of 'Ponyo' grace the town, allowing visitors to explore the actual filming locations while reliving cherished scenes from the movie. But the magic doesn't end there – you can immerse yourself in a one-of-a-kind experience by staying at the "Onfunayado Iroha," a hotel envisioned by none other than Hayao Miyazaki himself. For more about Onfunayado Iroha, check out my other article here.

This unique temple sits at the southernmost tip of the Numakuma Peninsula, within Hiroshima's Fukuyama City. Established between 1338 and 1342, it remains a sanctuary for seeking safe sea passage and blessings of healthy children.

I was so entranced by the mesmerizing vista from the temple's edge that I stood still, unable to move. Picture this: the azure Seto Inland Sea, black kites soaring, and the rhythmic waves. A truly breathtaking spectacle. Due to its secluded location, you'll likely have this place all to yourself.

Nestled along the scenic shores of the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi is a coastal town that invites visitors with its serene beauty and rich cultural heritage. With its charming narrow alleys, sloping streets, and breathtaking sea vistas, Onomichi seamlessly blends traditional allure with modern appeal. Interestingly, Onomichi also gained fame as a location featured in the Yakuza series, particularly in Yakuza 6, as the game's primary setting (thanks to my Instagram followers for sharing that tidbit).

Onomichi serves as the starting point for the renowned Shimanami Kaido cycling road (read more in my other article here) – a picturesque cycling route that connects the town to nearby islands through a series of bridges. This route offers a refreshing way to explore the region, pedaling through stunning landscapes and basking in the sea breeze.

After reaching the summit, stroll a mere 2 minutes to the observation deck. This 63-meter-long deck presents a sweeping vista of Onomichi and its waterway. Next, follow the Path of Literature – a walkway that extends from Senkoji Park to Senkoji Temple. Along this path, you'll encounter 25 natural stone monuments inscribed with works by writers and poets associated with Onomichi (note: English translations are not available, but the views and relaxing atmosphere make the stroll worthwhile).

Today, you can immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere as you explore one shop after another in Onomichi. As is often the case in many port towns across Japan, coffee culture thrives here. I highly recommend visiting several coffee shops, with my personal favorite being Onomichi Roman Coffee, Main Branch (尾道浪漫珈琲 本店).

This establishment offers more than just coffee; it's a living testament to the town's rich history. The very name, "Roman," pays homage to the romantic ambiance that graces Onomichi's streets. Step inside and be welcomed by vintage decor reminiscent of the Showa era (1926–1989), creating a warm and inviting setting. As you take a seat, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee fills the air. Don't miss the unique siphon-brewed coffee experience that unfolds right before your eyes, enhancing both taste and aroma. Onomichi Roman Coffee's menu embraces the essence of kissaten (coffee shop) culture in Japan, featuring freshly cooked French toasts, parfaits, seafood gratin, waffles, and club sandwiches.