Beginner’s Guide to Oze National Park:

Oze National Park has always felt like a place made for dreamers. Wooden boardwalks cross misty wetlands, wildflowers bloom along the trails, and the cool highland air is a world away from Japan’s busy cities.

If you’re new to Oze, let me introduce you: it’s one of Japan’s most famous national parks for hiking, and Hinoemata Village, my base for this adventure, is the main gateway on the Fukushima side. After a few days in Hinoemata, soaking in hot springs and trying local mountain food, I finally put on my boots and set out to hike some of Oze National Park’s most beautiful trails.

In this beginner’s guide, I’ll share the step-by-step route from Hinoemata Village and Oze Miike to Numayama Pass and Lake Ozenuma, show you how to book a mountain lodge, and offer practical tips for traveling responsibly in these wetlands. If you want real advice and a deeper look at village life in Hinoemata, you’re in the right place, be sure to check out Part 1 of my guide as well.

Let’s start our journey on the boardwalk together!

Oze captures your imagination even before you visit. I had seen photos and heard stories for years, but nothing matched the feeling of seeing the famous boardwalks crossing the wetlands with mountains in the background.

Every season in Oze has something special. In spring, white mizubasho (Asian skunk cabbage) covers the marshes. In summer, yellow daylilies fill the fields. In autumn, the grasses and forests turn gold and red. The fresh air and open spaces truly make you feel far from daily life. Now I understand why so many people love Oze.

So how can you experience Oze for yourself, and what’s the best route if it’s your first time? Here’s the path we followed and what you can expect.

For my first hike in Oze, we picked a route that’s great for beginners who are fairly fit. It’s challenging enough to feel rewarding, but not too hard.

Here’s the plan:

Hinoemata Village → Oze Miike → Numayama Pass → Lake Ozenuma → Overnight at a mountain lodge → Return to Hinoemata Village

Even though this route is considered beginner-friendly, it’s still a real mountain hike. On a scale from 1 to 5, where 1 is an easy city walk and 5 is a tough alpine trek, I’d rate this about a 2.5. You’ll climb about 350 meters between Numayama Pass and Lake Ozenuma, with a steady mix of uphill and downhill sections.

If you've hiked Mt. Takao near Tokyo, this route is about the same distance, but the ground is rougher and the weather can change quickly. The trails are clearly marked, but some parts can be wet, muddy, or slippery, especially after rain. Most of the hike is on forest paths and wooden boardwalks.

If you want more adventure, Oze has many other options. Experienced hikers can climb Hiuchigatake (燧ケ岳), the highest peak in Tohoku, or try a classic multi-day hike from Gunma Prefecture. Hinoemata also offers "workation" stays for remote work, and you can join guided hikes if you want local knowledge.

You can reach Oze from several prefectures, but going through Hinoemata Village lets you experience real mountain village life. That’s the route I chose.

As you leave Tokyo, the scenery gradually changes as you get closer to the mountains. With every kilometer, the excitement grows, because you know you’re not just visiting a national park — you’re about to enter one of Japan's most beautiful wild areas.

Step 1:
Start your journey by taking the shinkansen from Tokyo to Nasushiobara Station in Tochigi Prefecture.
You can also drive from Tokyo to Hinoemata, which takes about 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic and stops. Driving gives you more flexibility with your schedule.

Step 2:
From Nasushiobara, you can rent a car for the last two-hour drive to Hinoemata. The mountain roads are quiet and scenic, winding through forests and small villages.

Step 3:
When you reach Hinoemata, drive or take a local bus to Oze Miike. Private cars must stop here to help protect Oze’s delicate environment. From Miike, take the shuttle bus to Numayama Pass, which is the main trailhead for the Ozenuma area.

If you use public transportation, the easiest way is to take a limited express train from Asakusa Station in Tokyo to Aizu-Tajima Station on the Tobu Railway (about 3 hours). From Aizu-Tajima, transfer to the local Aizu Bus to reach Hinoemata Village.

One of the most memorable parts of my stay in Hinoemata was experiencing a minshuku, a traditional, family-run Japanese guesthouse. With fewer than 500 residents and very little land suitable for rice farming, many locals now make their living by running minshuku or small restaurants, often serving the village’s signature soba. This is part of what makes Hinoemata so distinctive.

While I was there, I learned about the Hirano family, who, over a century ago, were among the first to guide travelers through the Oze mountains and help develop the area for visitors.

In 1889, Hirano Chōzō from Hinoemata entered the area around Mount Hiuchigatake, and in 1910, he built a hut that would become "Chōzō-goya", one of the oldest mountain huts in Japan. He subsequently became known not only as the proprietor of the hut but also as a dedicated advocate for the conservation of Oze’s natural environment.

When plans for the Ozehara Dam appeared in the late 1910s, Chozo was among those who spoke out against it. In 1923, he traveled to Tokyo and petitioned the government to reconsider the dam and reservoir projects at Ozenuma and Ozegahara.

His winters in the mountains were harsh and lonely, with deep snow and little food, but Chozo endured it all to help preserve Oze’s nature for future generations. As he once wrote:

この地をして永遠に静寂を失わしむることなくして独想ー思索ー瞑想する地たらしめよ。青年よ赤き心よ風光明媚なるこの湖畔に大自然の下に集りてこの大自然の美を享受せよ。

"Let this place never lose its silence, so that it continues to be a place for solitary thought, contemplation, and meditation. Young people with passionate hearts, gather on this beautiful lakeshore under the great nature and enjoy the beauty of nature."

Locals like the Hirano family played an important role in Oze’s conservation history, working with others to resist development (especially dam construction and road building) and to support visitor rules that help keep the wetlands clean. Many of the rules and customs now in place were inspired by the dedication of people who loved and protected Oze long before it became a national park.

Yamoudo ryori, literally "cuisine of the mountain people," is the soul of Hinoemata’s table. It grew from generations of practical knowledge in this remote, high-altitude village, where the terrain made rice cultivation difficult. That resourcefulness can still be tasted in every dish. Even after eating my way across all 47 prefectures of Japan, these dishes were different from anything I’d ever tasted.

One of Hinoemata’s specialties is tachi soba. Made from 100% buckwheat flour, the dough is rolled into thin sheets, stacked, and cut by hand, as with cloth, a technique that requires considerable skill to produce evenly shaped noodles. Sampling tachi soba at a local restaurant is a must for food lovers visiting the village.

Another specialty is hattō, a traditional Hinoemata dish made from buckwheat and glutinous-rice flour. The dough is rolled out, cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, boiled, and typically coated with sweetened ground egoma seeds. Its name is said to come from gohatto, meaning "forbidden," after an official supposedly declared the dish too luxurious for everyday eating. A rule villagers, thankfully, no longer follow. Taking that first bite, earthy and just a little nutty, so good!

Meals at the minshuku often include char-grilled iwana (Japanese char), mountain vegetables, mushrooms, and other seasonal ingredients gathered from the surrounding forests and rivers.

To eat in Hinoemata is to taste more than local specialties, it’s a window inside the resilience of people who learned to thrive with snow, rivers, forests, limited farmland, and dramatic seasonal changes.

During my stay, I learned about one of Hinoemata’s most fascinating traditions: Hinoemata Kabuki.

It began in the Edo period, almost 280 years ago, when villagers brought the art form back from what is now Tokyo (then known as Edo), hoping to bring culture and entertainment to their remote mountain community. More than only entertainment, kabuki here has always been a sacred dedication, each performance is offered to the gods as an act as gratitude and reverence.

Today, about 26 villagers participate as actors, musicians, and backstage crew while keeping their day jobs. Uniquely, women also participate in performances, a practice that’s rare in classical kabuki.

The annual schedule usually features three main performances:

If your visit doesn’t coincide with these dates, you can still visit the historic open-air stage at Chinju Shrine, which is within walking distance of most inns.

The open-air stage was rebuilt in 1897 and is now an Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. Surrounded by trees and facing stone seats that rise to two small shrines, the setting is atmospheric and surreal.

Performances are held as part of shrine festivals, and, in the past, as many as 1,200 people would come together to watch. Even now, around 600 visitors make the journey each year to witness this living tradition, proof that the spirit of kabuki is very much alive in Hinoemata.

Near the approach to Hinoemata’s kabuki stage stands Hashiba no Banba, a distinctive stone figure surrounded by scissors left as offerings.

Originally worshipped as a guardian protecting children from drowning, Hashiba no Banba later became associated with both forming and breaking bonds.

The open-air stage was rebuilt in 1897 and is now an Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. Surrounded by trees and facing stone seats that rise to two small shrines, the setting is atmospheric and surreal.

For a moment, I found myself wondering which I would choose: a pair of scissors to help me take a new step forward, or one offered in the hope of protecting a precious bond.

Before heading into Oze National Park, here are some other things to do in Hinoemata, another reason why spending at least a night here is well worth it.

The local information center is a must for updates on the village, hiking routes, events, transportation, and Oze conditions. For first-time visitors, local advice is extremely helpful. Mountain weather and transportation schedules can change quickly, so check here before setting out. English language support is limited, and most staff primarily speak Japanese. Using a translation app or having important questions written in Japanese can help make communication smoother.

Nakadoai Park’s observation point gives you a panoramic view of the village and mountains, a perfect spot for photos and to appreciate Hinoemata’s remote setting.

From above, the cluster of red-roofed houses stands out amid a sea of green. The unified color scheme is a local government initiative — a visual symbol of communal spirit.

Hinoemata has three main public baths: Hiuchi no Yu, Koma no Yu, and Aruza hot spring.

These baths serve both travelers and locals. I visited right after the 6 am opening and found me sharing the morning ritual with villagers. The silky water soothes your skin and restores energy, and the open-air bath at Hiuchi no Yu offers a calming view of the stream.

Some minshuku in Hinoemata include free access to the village’s public baths for overnight guests. Day visitors can use them for around ¥1,000 per visit.

As a general rule, tattoos are not accepted at Hinoemata's public baths. Sometimes small, discreet tattoos are overlooked, but if you have tattoos, using the onsen at your minshuku may be a better option.

Tsurezure Labo-25, a recently opened workation and trial-stay space in a repurposed hot spring facility, is perfect for remote workers or anyone considering moving to Hinoemata. With Wi-Fi, workspaces, kitchen facilities, and a mountain view, it’s a comfortable base for longer stays.

Check current prices, minimum-stay requirements, and availability before planning your visit.

Stream fishing is a popular seasonal activity, but be sure to check fishing periods, permit requirements, and local rules before throwing a line.

Short walks around the village can complement your Oze itinerary, especially if you are not up for a longer hike. At Kokonoha Park, easy walking paths have been designed around the blooming seasons of Oze’s signature alpine flowers, allowing you to enjoy seasonal color without leaving Hinoemata.

Don’t fail to take the opportunity to stop at a local cafe for coffee or a snack. Feeling adventurous? Try gelato topped with a smoked salamander, a unique local specialty you are unlikely to find anywhere else.

Ready to hike into Oze National Park? Continue to Part 2 for hiking routes, mountain lodge tips, and responsible travel in Oze →

Hinoemata isn’t just a beautiful stop on the way to Oze National Park, by visiting it, you can genuinely make a difference here. The village flourishes thanks to travelers who take the time to slow down, stay a little longer, and appreciate the local way of life.

If you want to get the most out of your visit, consider spending the night or two in a family-run minshuku, sharing a meal of tachi soba, hatto, or mountain vegetables, and soaking in the public hot springs alongside locals. Pop into the information center and chat with staff for the best insider tips. They love sharing their village with curious guests.

A little courtesy goes a long way in Hinoemata. Ask before taking photos of people or private homes, and embrace the slower pace and close-knit feeling that make the village special.

That sense of "knowing what is enough" is part of daily life here. It’s about appreciating heritage, community, and the things you already have. Something I found myself thinking about long after I left.

If you’re ready to see what’s next, continue to Part 2, where I’ll guide you from Hinoemata out into Oze’s famous wetlands, with all the practical tips you need for a truly memorable adventure.